Wise Dog Web Design 3/03/18 Wise Dog Web Design 3/03/18

Borneo Adventure: Eye to Eye with the Borneo Orangutan

Connecting with the Borneo orangutan at Semenggoh and Matang. Marvelling at other Borneo wildlife in Bako National Park and Kubah National Park. Our best Borneo adventures.

The Borneo rainforest is home to many unique and endangered species including the Borneo pigmy elephant, Bornean rhinoceros, clouded leopard and Hose's palm civet.

For us, the big draw was to see the critically endangered old man of the jungle, otherwise known as the Borneo orangutan.

Our first visit was back in 2011, a fantastic pressie from Julie for a special birthday. Let’s just say it had a five and a zero in it! We had such a wonderful first visit, that we jumped at an opportunity to return to the largest Island in Asia in June of last year.

Little did we know that this latest trip would include sharing our accommodation with a huge crocodile.

The Kebun

Our accommodation on both trips was The Kebun, just outside Kuching. Set on the edge of the Borneo jungle and with the Sungai Rayu river running along one side. The Kebun, run by Adrian and his family, is an organic farm in the jungle with some unique accommodation options.

Adrian used to be a set designer, and two of his bungalows (Adrian’s & Oliva’s) came from the set of the movie, The Sleeping Dictionary (starring Jessica Alba and Bob Hoskins). He has also built an authentic longhouse that can sleep up to 10 people, and the Huntsman Lodge for families wanting a little more space.

Amazing Hosts

The Long House

On our first trip back in 2011, we stayed in Adrian’s Bungalow . This riverside accommodation is a very authentic Malay style comfortable bungalow that would have been built during the days of British rule.

Each evening we would make our back after dinner, using our torch to scan for snakes and crocs.

On our first visit, Adrian was our tour guide and driver for the week, excellent personal service.

This time around we got to spend time in Oliva’s Bungalow. Nowadays you are provided with a car and the local highlights are pre-programmed into a GPS as part of your stay. Dinner is delicious homemade fare delivered to your room each evening. No more dodging crocodiles and snakes, or so we thought.

Olivia's Bungalow

Olivia's Bungalow Verandah

The Kebun is an excellent base from which to explore all the things to do in Kutching.

Matang Wildlife Centre

Established in 1998, Matang Wildlife Centre is a stone’s throw away from The Kebun. Being us, we arrived bright and early. So much so that ranger at the gate still had his sleepy head on.

The primary focus of the centre is the rehabilitation of rescued and confiscated orangutans. Here they are taught how to cope by themselves in the wild. When ready they are transferred to various locations including Semenggoh for release. Unfortunately, not all the babies take to independent life in the jungle, and some spend much of their life at the centre.

The centre is also home to rescued monkeys, hornbills, sun bears and civets.

You can volunteer here but you will need a deep wallet, as getting up close with orangutans does not come cheap.

A highlight of our visit was watching a young female orangutan rolling around with a sack over her head. She was having a ball.

Semenggoh Nature Reserve

This is the reason why you visit Borneo, to get to see the old man (and woman) of the jungle up close.

Semenggoh is home to family groups of orangutans, many of them starting life as orphans. Over the years a number of those orphans have grown up to have their own families. There are now second and third generation orangutans that have been born and grown up in the park.

The dedicated rangers and wardens spend their days training the orangutans to feed and fend for themselves.

In 2011, none of the orangutans came down for the morning feed, and so the large crowd of visitors left disappointed.

Adrian told us to hang tight, and he went off to chat to a park ranger. Next minute we were trekking through a part of the park that was closed off.

This track used to be open to small guided groups, but Hot Mamma (orangutan) had taken exception one day and bitten off a couple of fingers of a ranger. So the path had been closed to the general public. We were now getting a private tour.

We still didn’t see any orangutans but had an enjoyable hour tramping through the steaming hot Borneo jungle. We exited the walk with a few friends. A number of leeches had attached themselves to our boots and socks.

Another time, Hot Mamma came ambling through the visitors areawith a baby clinging to her. We were close enough to reach out and touch her. But I valued my fingers far more than a fleeting stroke of a semi-wild orangutan.

Completely hooked we went back for a third visit in 2011, and on this occasion, a couple of orangutans were being fed by a ranger in the car park.

On our recent visit we had a chance to chat to Dominic, one of the rangers. He had spent the last 15 years working with orangutans at Semenggoh and Matang Wildlife Centre.

I asked him how the palm oil plantations were affecting the habit of the orangutans. While certainly having a huge impact on these beautiful animals, Dominic was also aware of the need of the people of Sarawak to able to earn a living. “We just have to find a way where both the people and the orangutans can thrive.” A very diplomatic answer.

That balance has yet to be struck. As you fly into Kuching the rich rainforest has been decimated in the name of palm oil. What was once a rich landscape of dense forest, is now palm oil plantations as far as the eye can see. There is little wonder that these gorgeous animals are struggling to survive.

Kubah National Park

Tucked along the edge of the Matang Range, Kubah National Park is just a short drive away from The Kebun. At the entrance, we came across my long lost twin brother. Turns out my twin is hilarious and helpful. Full of tips on the best trails and gently reminding us to drink lots of water.

We chose the waterfall walk which is a 3-hour hike and started with a 20-minute slog uphill on tarmac before turning off into the jungle. Then it becomes a mixture of trails and wooden walkways crossing swampy areas.

The waterfalls are probably much more impressive during the rainy season. Still, it was worth the slog. The slippery rocks around the base of the waterfall made getting close an extreme sport with more than one person falling on their butt.

Heading back, we came across an unusual group heading to the falls. A photoshoot team of four guys were carrying tripods and other equipment, while a woman struggled along in a full-on wedding dress and flip flops. Go figure.

Bako National Park

One of the gems in the Kuching area and the oldest National Park in Sarawak. Approx 50 minutes from The Kebun is the pier where the shuttle boats for Bako depart. The 25-minute boat ride to the park costs RM40 for a return ticket.

On our first visit here we encountered several bearded pig piglets, the rare proboscis monkeys (only found in Borneo) and several macaques, including a group playing in a pool of water left by the outgoing tide

We tackled a short hike that almost killed us, such was the level of fitness back in 2011.

This time around we opted for a longer hike, over three and half hours, across various terrains and ecosystems, including slippery rocks, mangrove forest, and a maze of tree roots.

There are 18 different trails to choose from. To keep an eye on visitors you have to sign in and sign out when you start and finish each walk. A number of the walks take you to deserted coves, where the warm waters of the Java Sea lap gently onto the beach.

The wildlife was pretty quiet on the trail, that’s because it was all down near the visitor centre. Within just a couple hundred metres of stepping off the boat, we came across silver leaf langur monkeys, proboscis monkeys, bearded pigs, and ring-tailed lemur with a baby up a tree.

Sarawak Cultural Village

These places are not normally our cup of tea. Given that they are clinical potted examples of rural life. But on our first trip to Borneo, we had an enjoyable few hours at the Sarawak Cultural Village with Adrian as our host

We wandered through the many different types of traditional longhouses from the various ethnic groups. Some of the houses have examples of local crafts and foods.

There’s also a 45-minute cultural display, with performances of songs and dances. Adrian helped make our visit an enjoyable experience. It was very quiet the day we visited and apart from the odd local school group it felt like we had the place to ourselves.

We did get a slice of real longhouse village life with a visit to Annah Rais Longhouse. Sometimes felt like voyeur taking a peep at everyday life for these villagers. Be warned there are the occasional organised group of loud tourists who barge through snapping photos of anything that moves. Be patient they’ll be gone in a matter of minutes.

More Quick Highlights

Chingsan Yan Temple, great views out to Bako National Park and the Sarawak River.

Rambungan Beach & Jetty, beautiful long beach just a few minutes drive and small car ferry crossing from The Kebun.

Virgin Coconut Shake, yummy shakes after a busy day sightseeing.

Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, built for the workers on the rubber plantations, pleasant walk and views across Kuching. Warning there may be a guy hovering by your car when you return asking for money for ‘taking care of your vehicle’.

Kampung Telaga Air, small fish market with one or two restaurants.

Crocodile Encounter

During our recent visit, Adrian moved his chickens and ducks from down by the river to up close to the house one day.

Now in his years running The Kebun, Adrian seen just about all the dangerous and exotic wildlife that Borneo can throw up. Including a snake that gave him rope burns when he lassoed it.

So when he stepped out of the main house early evening, during a heavy thunderstorm, to see what the dogs were barking at, a stream of expletives poured out of his mouth. He came within feet of a hungry 4.5 metre (15 foot) crocodile who was pissed that Adrian had moved his food supply.

The crocodile had swam up the small stream that runs through the grounds, padded up the drive passed Oliva's Bungalow in the search for an evening snack.

The next morning we woke to a dead chicken suspended on a chain and hook across the stream. Pulling up our seats on the back veranda and with camera at the ready, we waited for the action to start. Unfortunately (or fortunately) Mr Crocodile was already fat and full and didn't take the bait during our visit.

Adrian did tell us that the crocodile had made an appearance several days later. Firing his shotgun, the pellets just bounced off the thick skinned croc like jelly beans.

The last night of our stay at The Kebun, Adrian asked if we would be interested in housesitting! I don’t think we have the necessary skills and experience for jungle housesit, just yet. But boy what an experience it would be.

The Kebun is a magical place; if you are looking for a little taste of jungle life in Borneo, then this is the place for you. You can hang out and relax, wander the ever-changing jungle gardens. It’s also a perfect spot from which to explore the surrounding area.

Adrian is a fantastic host, a mine of helpful hints and tips on what to see and do. And of course he has many a riveting tale of wildlife encounters in this corner of Borneo.

The heart and soul of borneo

Of all the many attractions in and around Kuching, we could have spent hour after hour at Semenggoh, being in the presence of the orangutans. We felt a deep connection looking eye to eye with the orangutans as we shared their space.

If for no other reason a trip to Borneo is worth every penny/cent for a chance to get see the Richie, Hot Mamma, Salina and her baby, and the rest of the orangutans of Semenggoh in the semi wild.

The work that Dominic and the team do day in and day out is priceless. Many people have dedicated their lives to the plight of the orangutan. It is something we can all help with, even from thousands of miles away.

For us, we will strive to buy only non palm oil products or at least sustainably produced products. Every person who does this will help preserve the precious habitat that these beautiful animals need for their very survival.

Footnote. There was a recent report covering the plight of the endangered orangutans. Here’s a link to the BBC’s coverage of the report.

Wise Dog Web Design 1/12/17 Wise Dog Web Design 1/12/17

A Guide to Visting Myanmar (Part 3): Slow Train to Inle Lake

The final part of the best Myanmar destinations for a two week Myanmar itinerary. Taking the slow train, exploring Inle Lake and chilling on Ngapoli Beach.

The public bus coughed and sputtered its way north from Bagan to Mandalay. We were the only white faces for the five-hour journey. Surprised looks greeted us every time somebody new hopped on board. Why weren’t these crazy gringos taking the tourist VIP bus?

Our last week saw us head to some of the top Myanmar destinations. From Mandalay to Inle Lake, followed by chill time at one of the best beaches in Myanmar, Ngapoli Beach.

I’m sure there are some beautiful parts to Mandalay and a handful of must-visit locations but...we were dead tired, and a little out of sorts. So we spent 48 hours grabbing train tickets, sleeping, and catching up on a couple of episodes of The Walking Dead.

Yes, I know we could watch TV anywhere and at any time. But sometimes when travelling long term you hit the wall, and this was one of those moments.

Taking it real slow

As the afternoon train pulled out of Mandalay station, we settled in for the long haul. The journey to our next destination (Inle Lake) was at snail's pace and involved an overnight stay in Thazi.

But first, a 4-hour train trip to reach this two-horse town. One horse to ferry you from the train station to the centre and another to take you back again. Not that you need a horse and cart (unless you are travelling Imelda Marcos style) as the centre is a two-minute walk.

Thazi reminds us of an old western-style staging town. The kind where tumbleweed rolls through, where strangers are greeted with a steely stare, and trigger fingers get twitchy. Far too many John Wayne movies as a kid.

The accommodation options can be counted on two fingers. Literally. There’s Moonlight Guest House or Wonderful Guest House. Both miss the world’s top ten hotels by a country mile. But it’s all part of the Myanmar experience, and we are so glad we had a chance to take it all in.

Having strolled both sides of the main street, we went in search of food. Being vegetarian can sometimes be challenging in remote locations. But we were wooed by one restaurant owner who assured us that his menu came with veggie options. It did and was surprisingly tasty, aided by a couple of Myanmar Beers.

Climbing out of bed early we took the quick walk to the station to make sure that we secured first-class seats for the 10-hour ride. There’s no automatic ticket machines, no online booking; this is really old school.

Escorted onto the platform and to the Station Manager’s office, our tickets were handwritten, and our names entered into a ledger the size of the Magna Carta.

Sitting opposite us was a young German couple. No sooner had the train pulled out than the guy whisked out a screwdriver and set to work fixing his permanently reclined seat. He was soon in hot demand as other passengers (mostly locals) called upon his excellent fix-it skills.

The narrow-gauge train gently rocked along, passing lush green fields, dry open plains before chugging its way uphill. During the climb we made several switchbacks, staff jumping out and pulling enormous levers to switch the track.

Forwards and backwards, the train zigzagged over the hill. Not saying we were moving along slowly but I’m sure I saw a snail overtake us at one point.

Stopping at remote villages, traders swamped the train selling food, some identifiable, some not. All with the friendly Myanmarese smile we had come to know and love.

This train journey is an epic way to experience life in some of the more remote parts of Myanmar. Gazing out of the window at the hand to mouth existence certainly makes you stop and think about how lucky and spoilt we are.

Of course, you could skip the train and fly direct to the lake, but where is the experience in that?

Pulling into the last stop, we jumped in the back of a tuk-tuk for the 20-minute ride to the town of Nyaungshwe, our base for exploring Inle Lake.

Cruising Inle Lake

The 116 squared km (452 sq. miles) lake supports a thriving community and is also a hotspot for tourists, with the Inle Lake boat tour the number one must-do activity.

Boats of all shapes and sizes ply the lake. From super speedy long-tailed tourist boats to simple hollowed craft for ferrying goods around.

At the far end of the lake, there are some key places to visit including floating villages, temples, and monasteries. There are also silversmiths and silk workshops to tempt you, and cheroot (small cigars) factories.

We choose to skip the ‘show and buy’ options and headed straight for the temples.

Zipping down various canals, passing houses on stilts. Workers up their necks in the water picking rocks off the bottom. Weed gatherers used paddles to pull up piles of weed slowly. The weed is used to fertilise floating gardens.

There’s also the famous fishermen that stand, using one leg to row their boat so that both hands are free to cast their net.

The Nga Phe Kyaung monastery was infamous for its jumping cats. We understand that the cats are now retired from their performance days. The monastery is still worth a visit. The dark teak wood is a stark contrast to the brilliantly coloured temples we are used to seeing.

Shwe Indein Pagoda is at the southern edge of the lake with its covered walkway that turns into a craft and antique market. We arrived before there was any sign of life. Perfect for photos. On each side of the walkway are ruins of various pagodas and stupas. Some had been swallowed up by Mother Nature, some were undergoing restoration. All different colours and sizes.

Towards the bottom end of the lake is the more significant Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda. The big draw here is the five small statues of Buddha which have been covered in gold leaf. The Buddhas are now unrecognisable and look like gold blobs (a future Dr Who character, me thinks). Much to Julie’s annoyance only men are deemed worthy enough to apply the gold leaf.

We organised our day on the lake through our digs, Aquarius Inn. A cute little place with a relaxing garden where they serve afternoon tea. How civilised.

One afternoon as we drank tea in the garden, a parade passed by. Hundreds of men, women and children in local costumes taking part. The ladies were carrying ornaments festooned with money. The men banging drums and dancing as if at some trendy rave party.

Unfortunately bringing up the rear of the parade was a sad-looking elephant decorated from head to toe and perched atop, a young boy. The mahout walking alongside carrying a large bullhook. A real mood killer for these elephant lovers.

We hired bikes and cycled part-way around the lake. Paying the ferryman, we bundled our bikes onto a narrowboat to cross the lake. On the way back we found Red Mountain Estate vineyard and stopped for a tasting. Yuk, was the commonly used adjective. There’s still a long way to go for the wine industry in Myanmar.

One of the funniest experiences of our time at Inle Lake was eating at Innlay Hut. A great little Indian curry house run by a guy (Nepalese/Bangladeshi) who models himself on Eminem. The first night a power cut delayed food arriving, but our host kept us entertained and supplied us with free beer. Returning two evenings later, we had yet another power cut. The owner remembered us and everything we had to eat on the previous visit. To top it off the food is delicious.

Best food at Inle Lake and a great host.

Ngapali Beach Bliss

We did take an internal flight to our next destination, Ngapali Beach. The bus would take the best part of two days, and we wanted to maximise what time we had left.

Again the booking system is not quite the modern, slick operation we are used to. Handwritten boarding passes and stickers to identify which flight we were on. The small plane pulled right up to the door of the terminal. Can’t fault the boarding, it took 10 minutes, tops.

Compared to the rest of Myanmar, the accommodation, food and activities at Ngapali Beach are costly. We choose a budget hotel (air-con only allowed on for a couple of hours a day) just a hundred metres back from the beach. For the most part, we had the place to ourselves but come the weekend it filled up rapidly with locals arriving for the start of the Thingyan Water Festival.

Ngapali Beach is a series of white sandy bays with fishing villages dotted along the road that runs just behind the beaches. The lure of the unspoilt beaches has seen large hotel chains moving in including the likes of The Hilton.

There’s very little to do other than soak up the sun, swim, eat and drink. A perfect location to unwind after a couple of weeks of travelling.

I did manage to find the local market, which once again was filled with sights and smells that send the senses into overload. It’s one of my favourite places to photograph. Once you get over the fact that you’re the only white face around, markets are a great insight into local life.

Water festival Party time

Thingyan is the Buddhist New Year festival and runs for three to four days. Once the religious aspects of the festival have been observed, it turns into a riot involving water.

At Ngapali Beach, large platforms (pandals) sponsored by hotels or beer companies sprang up. Hoses with spray gun attachments are installed just waiting for the fun to begin. Nobody is safe from a soaking, be that scooter riders, tourist-laden tuk-tuks, or anybody daring to walk by. Young and old alike.

We were chased by a couple of locals kids with buckets. We felt it only fair to let them have a little bit of fun.

Back in Yangon for a night, flatbed trucks crowded with locals pulled alongside each other and exchanged buckets of water, while those on the platforms took aim with the hoses.

Friends, Sam and Shaun always choose this time to take a holiday from their teaching jobs in Yangon.

Things can get a little raucous, and the incidents of sexual assault go through the roof. More people die from drunken scooter accidents during Thingyan than any other time of year.

Bye Bye Myanmar, Time to leave

Our time in this fascinating country flew by. The people we met, the towns and villages we visited, the sights we saw, made us fall in love with Myanmar.

Myanmar has so much to offer to those travelling long-term or those looking for a two week getaway with a difference. Warm, genuine smiles greeted us everywhere we ventured. Helping hands worked hard to make sure that we enjoyed our time.

We cannot be ignorant of the fact that there is ethnic cleansing to the north and cocktails and sunsets to the south. Myanmar is very much a military-led country, sitting behind the facade of a Government that is powerless to invoke change.

However, you do get the feeling that some change is in the air and it is fuelled, in part, by the increasing number of visitors to this South East Asian gem. But with increased tourism, comes the risk that the charm that Myanmar offers today may diminish as it has in other South-East Asian countries. Only time will tell.

Click here for more Inle Lake, Ngapali Beach Photos

OUR BREAKDOWN

We travelled by: (price for two)

Bagan to Mandalay - Public bus - NZ$25.50 (US$18)
Mandalay to Thazi - Train ticket (Standard Class) NZ$2.10 (US$1.50)
Horse taxi Thazi NZ$2.10 (US$1.50)
Train from Thazi to Inle Lake (Upper Class) NZ$6.20 (US$4.25)
Tuk Tuk from Train Station to Inle Lake Guest House NZ$3.10 (US$2)
Flights from Inle Lake to Ngapoli Beach NZ$198 (US$$140)
Taxi to airport at Inle Lake (35km away from town) NZ$19 (US$13)

We stayed at: (price per night for two)

Mandalay - Hotel Kaung Myint NZ$28.50 (US$19.50) included breakfast and ensuite, pretty central, clean and tidy.
Thazi - Moonlight Guest House NZ$20.75 (US$14.25) ensuite, very basic. May have gone through an update since we stayed.
Inle Lake - Aquarius Inn - NZ$29 (US$20) included breakfast and ensuite, excellent hospitality, served afternoon tea every day. One of best places we stayed in Myanmar.
Ngapoli Beach - Vicinity Manor Ngapali Motel - NZ$86 (US$59), price included breakfast (pretty basic) and ensuite, ground floor room with small outdoor sitting area. Staff not too helpful, but it was one of the cheapest around.

We ate at (price for two)

Mandalay - Central Park NZ$14.35 (US$10) a very western style restaurant, pizzas and burgers, had a friendly vibe to it.
Thazi - Dinner at local bar NZ$7.50 (US$5)
Inle Lake - Innlay Hut - NZ$11.50 (US$8). Loved this place and the owner, great food.
Inle Lake - Pancake Kingdom - NZ$7.25 (US$5) So so, wanted something different, very quiet on the night we were there.
Ngapoli Beach - Maison de Mare - NZ16 (US$11) On the main road, 2-minute walk from the hotel, seafood is excellent.
Ngapoli Beach - Two Brothers - NZ18 (US$12) Gets excellent Tripadvisor reviews, but we have eaten better.
Ngapoli Beach - Sunset View Beach Bar & Restaurant- NZ17 (US$11.50) Wonderful spot on the beach, we shared a whole baked fish and watched the sunset.

Other Costs (for two unless stated)

Inle Lake, Red Mountain Estate Vineyard - Wine tasting NZ$11.50 (US$8). The wine is below average, but the views and experience are worth it.
Inle Lake - Bike hire NZ$4.20 (US$3) for the day
Inle Lake - Ferry with the bikes NZ$10 (US$7)
Inle Lake - 5-hour boat trip NZ$41.50 (US$28.50). Organised by the lovely lady at Aquarius Inn.
Inle Lake - Archeological Zone Entrance Fee (valid for five days) - NZ$26 (US$18)
Ngapoli Beach - 1 eScooter Hire NZ$12.50 (US$8.50 ) for the day. Twice the price of the Bagan, but gave us the ability to visit one or two other beaches and an inland temple.

In total, we set a budget for two of NZ$80 (US$59) per day. We ended coming in at NZ$100 (US$74).125% to budget.

You can read more about crisis that is happening in Myanmar right now in this BBC article: Myanmar Rohingya: What you need to know about the crisis

If you would like to support the Oxfam Emergency Appeal, please click here.

A Guide to Visiting Myanmar (Part 2): The Beautiful Bagan Temples

Part two of the best Myanmar destinations for a two week Myanmar itinerary. What to do in Bagan? Explore the Bagan temples by ebike of course.

After exploring Yangon (A Guide to Visiting Myanmar Part 1: What to Do in Yangon), it was time to move on, and we were excited.

The Bagan temples should be on everybody’s travel bucket list. Up there with Angkor Wat, The Great Pyramids, and Petra for the archaeological wow factor. Although it isn’t until you get there, you appreciate the vastness and scale of the Bagan Plains.

Jumping into a taxi for the ride to the bus station was the start of a nail-biting “will we make it” journey. A trip that should have taken 30 minutes stretched into well over an hour and a half. Thanks to Friday holiday traffic. But the stress didn’t stop there.

The bus station is more of a small town than a bus depot. Riding around and around we were pointed in different directions every time the driver asked for help. The clock continued ticking, and our stress levels reached boiling point. After what seemed like an age, we located JJ Express Buses, with just 10 minutes to spare, phew.

We had booked the seats right at the front with the hope that this would help with any travel sickness.

Top travel tip… if you’re on an overnight bus, sitting right behind the driver is not going to help you get much sleep. Our drivers kept up a steady stream of chatter for the whole 9-hour journey, occasionally bursting into fits of giggles (aided by constant betel nut chewing).

Next time we will be sitting further back cuddling a sick bag. At least we’ll get some sleep.

Dropped off at the edge of Nyaung-U, a small town just a few kilometres from Old Bagan, we were then ferried to the Shwe Na Di Guest House by horse and cart, for NZ$7 (US$5). This was no New York City carriage ride. I had a vice-like grip to stop myself from sliding off the back and bouncing along the dusty road.

Exhausted we eagerly paid the upgrade for a room with an en-suite and collapsed on the bed. But after a few minutes rest, we were like a couple of kids at first snow. Eager to get out and explore in case the famous Bagan temples melted away before we saw them.

It is thought that over 10,000 temples, pagodas and monasteries were built in the region between 1044 to 1287.

The region ceased to be the capital of Burma back in the late 13th century. This change, the passing of time, and several hundred earthquakes have reduced much of the area’s former glory.

The last earthquake in August 2016 destroyed 400 temples and severely damaged several other key sites. Today just over two thousand temples remain. Some in excellent condition, many just stumps of their former glory.

When you look at the horizon, all you can see is temple after temple. Heaven knows how glorious the view must have been back in the heyday.

We had two full days in Bagan, including our arrival day. Kind of enough time, but if you’re super serious about photography, you’re going to want a week here. And there’s a great cost-effective way to explore.

Electric scooters, known locally as e-bikes, are available to hire for around NZ$6 (US$4) per day from most guesthouses and various vendors in town. Make sure you do all the usual checks, brakes, lights, signs of damage, and that the bike is fully charged.
E-bikes are a fantastic environmentally friendly way to cram in as many temples as possible in an area that stretches for 13 square kilometres.
And the joy of the electric scooter is that you’re free to roam anywhere you choose and at your own pace. Quiet too, which adds to the serenity.

Needing to eat before we headed out we found a great little place called Leo’s. The owner was chatty and welcoming providing us with local recommendations on where best to visit. And they served delicious food, a mixture of Burmese and Western. Fully charged we set off to satisfy our inner Indiana Jones.

Ducking and diving down sandy side roads we soon found ourselves alone. Excitedly pointing out pagodas and temples left, right and centre, the afternoon flew by.

One of the more spectacular and popular ways to experience the Bagan Plains is from a hot air balloon. Multi-coloured balloons take to the skies at sunrise enhancing many a photo. The views must be mind-blowing.

We arrived at the end of the ballooning season, and the cost made it difficult to justify. Starting at NZ$450 (US$315) each, it’s incredibly expensive. But in hindsight, it’s one of those experiences that maybe we should have just bitten the bullet and said you only live once.

Along with most of the visitors to Bagan, (well those who couldn’t afford balloon rides) we headed to Shwesandaw Pagoda for sunset. The vast array of shoes and flip-flops at the bottom of the central stairway is an indication that this is a popular spot.

Sunset at Shwesandaw Pagoda. Even the Buddhist Monks love a photo opp. — Sunset at Shwesandaw Pagoda. Even the Buddhist Monks love a photo opp.

Quick tip.. get here early if you want to be able to capture a glorious sunset without bobbing heads getting in the way.

Built in 1057 the pagoda has five terraces, although the top level was closed off at the time of our visit. The beautiful cylindrical stupa stands proudly across the Plain.

As soon as the sun sets you’re shooed off the temple and run the gauntlet of polite hawkers keen for you to view their paintings and other trinkets.

The Shwesandaw Pagoda is also a great spot for sunrise, and surprisedly just as busy as sunset.

Most of the temples are visually stunning, even the run down, earthquake-damaged ones have something unique about them. One of the more remarkable ‘complete’ temples is Ananda, which has the nickname of ‘Westminster Abbey of Burma.’

This vast complex with its four standing Buddhas (pointing North, South, East and West) has been carefully restored and gives a glimpse of what life must have been like when all the temples were first built. Word of warning, in the midday heat the tiled floor gets blisteringly hot under your bare feet.

The Westminster Abbey of Burma, Ananda Temple.

We guided our trusty e-bike (which coped well with two passengers) off the main road and headed down to the Ayeyarwaddy River. Here we found a beautiful quiet ruin with no tourists. Just a loved-up couple of local kids for company, we all watched the sun dip over the river.

Sunset on the Ayeyarwaddy River. Another perfect end to another perfect day. — Sunset on the Ayeyarwaddy River. Another perfect end to another perfect day.

A couple of other striking temples to visit are, Sulamani and its next-door neighbour Thabeik Hmauk.

Sulamani is relatively busy, with a few traders trying to tempt you (easily done when they are so pretty) with postcards, local paintings and artefacts. Inside the temple, some great examples of frescoes from the early part of the 12th century remain.

Thabiek is much quieter, in fact, we were the only ones there, apart from a local chap. In the typically Myanmarese way, he gently and helpfully showed us a tiny cubby hole in the wall which leads to the top giving spectacular 360° views of the Bagan Plains. It would have been easy to miss this hidden terrace access.

After snapping some photos, we turned around to find that our helper had laid out his paintings on the floor for us to view with the hope that we would make a purchase. Not having any walls to hang paintings on seemed like a lame, but true excuse.

We did try and tip the guy for showing us the temple, but he was having none of it. He was not even grumpy. Another example of why we love the Myanmar people so much.

Close to our hostel is the Shwezigon Pagoda. Completed in 1102, this enormous temple with its golden stupa glistening under the lights comes alive in the evening with local families congregating. It certainly does not feel like a tourist temple. I’m pretty sure we were the only gringos there on the night that we visited.

Bagan is a magical place, whether it’s exploring a ruin on your own, sitting on a temple terrace watching the sun dip or negotiating with a cheeky local trader. Disappearing off the main road is almost like being transported back in time.

It’s no surprise why it’s top of the ‘must-do list’ when visiting Myanmar. That said you can escape the tour groups easily. You do not get the same level of crowds as Angkor Wat or The Pyramids.

We could have quite easily spent another couple of days exploring rather than heading to Mandalay. The people we met were super relaxed, happy and smiley, keen for you to enjoy this treasure of a landscape.

It’s touristy with a small ’t’, for now anyway. We would go back in a heartbeat.

For more Bagan photos, click here. Next up, in the final part of our Myanmar Guide, we take a very slow train to Inle Lake before chilling at the beach, Myanmar style. Where The 2017 Water Festival kicks off with a vengeance.

OUR BREAKDOWN

We travelled by:

JJ Express VIP Bus from Yangon to Bagan, NZ$21 (US$15) each for the overnight journey. You can fly from Yangon for around NZ$140 (US$96), and it takes 1.5 hours. For us, the difference between the airfare and the bus fare covered the accommodation, e-bike hire, meals, and the Bagan Archaeological Zone Fee (NZ$27/US$18, valid for five days).

We stayed at:

Shwe Ni Di Guest House, NZ$36.45 (US$25) for a double room with ensuite and breakfast. Highly recommended. Our room was clean and tidy, helpful staff, and just a 15-minute ride away from the main temples.

We ate at:

Leo’s Restaurant, friendly owner, very helpful. Food is excellent, less than NZ$10 (US$7) for lunch for two.
Bibo Restaurant, NZ$17 (US$12) for four mojitos (it had been a long dusty day), two main courses and pancakes for dessert. Lovely setting, friendly staff and fantastic food.
Moon Restaurant, NZ$14 (US$10) for two curry dishes. Speciality vegetarian restaurant, garden setting, pretty close to the main temples.
We did have breakfast on our arrival day at one of the cafes full of locals, two banana pancakes, a local coffee (an acquired taste) and tea for just NZ$2 (US$1.40)

We also spent:

There is a Bagan Archaeological Zone entrance fee of NZ$26 (US$18) per person. This is paid at a booth between the bus station/airport and the main town.
The electric scooter cost NZ$6 ($4) per day, hired from our guest house.

You can read more about crisis that is happening in Myanmar right now in this BBC article: Myanmar Rohingya: What you need to know about the crisis

If you would like to support the Oxfam Emergency Appeal, please click here.

A Guide to visiting Myanmar (Part 1): What to do in Yangon

Why Myanmar should still be on your bucket list. In three parts, we share the best Myanmar destinations for a two week itinerary. Part one, What to do in Yangon.

As we recall our travels through Myanmar in April of this year, we find the country in the news for all the wrong reasons. It’s tough to write positively about a destination when it's in turmoil.

Large areas are off-limits to foreigners, including the northern Rakhine state where evidence of ethnic cleansing against the minority Muslim Rohingya population is mounting. The UN is trying to apply pressure on the Myanmar Government to allow teams to enter the region. The world’s press is sharing images of thousands of refugees fleeing into Bangladesh. People are suffering, and it’s hard to witness.

But should this stop you from going?

Only you can make the decision. For travellers, Myanmar (formerly Burma) is one of the safest countries we have visited. Tourism is still very much in its infancy. Accommodation is limited to state-approved guesthouses and hotels. There’s no camping or AirBnB.

One reason to go is the people. We have never met more friendly and welcoming people. Ever. The consistent kindness we were shown during our stay catapulted Myanmar to our number two favourite country, after New Zealand.

And while this humanitarian crisis continues, ordinary Myanmarese still need to scratch a living. A great way to support them without lining the pocket of the Government and their high powered friends is by staying at family-run guesthouses, eating at small independent restaurants, and booking local guides. These little things can make a real difference to families that are often living hand to mouth.

Over the next three posts, we will share with you how and why we fell in love with Myanmar. And why we think you should add it to your travel bucket list. We will cover what we believe is the perfect two-week itinerary capturing the countries highlights. Including the former capital Yangon, the incredible temples of Bagan, Inle Lake, and Ngapoli Beach.

So let’s go!

We hadn’t planned on visiting Myanmar, but with friends living and working in Yangon, we were quickly swayed into adjusting our plans for South-East Asia. And boy, are we glad we did. Every now and again while travelling you visit somewhere that completely blows your expectations out of the water. Myanmar was one of those places.

What to do in Yangon

Sam, a colleague from my early days of working in London, and her husband Shaun, are teachers at an International School and have been living in Yangon for almost a year. I hadn’t seen Sam for the best part of 25 years. But with a beer (or two) in hand, we soon caught up on life over the last couple of decades.

Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon was the capital of Myanmar until 2006. It is a bustling city with a population pushing 7 million, and we couldn’t wait to start exploring.

The glistening Shwedagon Pagoda

With some hints and tips under our belt from Sam and Shaun, we headed out into the blistering heat. First stop, the jewel in the crown, the Shwedagon Pagoda.

massive_lion_statue_entrance_shwedagon-pagoda_yangon_myanmar.jpg

This temple is the most sacred in the country, and you can understand why. Standing 99 metres tall (325 feet) the Pagoda is literary one big jewellery box. Covered in gold plate, with 5,448 diamonds, 2,317 rubies, and a 76-carat diamond perched on top. Local legend states the Pagoda was first erected some 2,500 years ago. Historians say that it’s more like 1,100 years. Either way, it's old and magnificent.

The entrance fee to the complex is US$8 and allows you multiple entries in one day. The dress code is stringent, so definitely no vest tops or butt-hugging shorts. If you can, borrow or buy a traditional longyi (a cylindrical shaped, waist-to-floor skirt worn by everyone, all the time, men and women included). You also have to go barefoot, the tiled floor of the compound can get eye-watering hot in the mid day heat.

At the entrance, as Julie attempted to tie her longyi, a young lady looked on shaking her head and giggling. To Julie’s dismay, she was putting on the longyi loaned by Sam upside down, oh and tying it man-style. Being correctly dressed by this sweet girl, without a word exchanged was the first of many acts of kindness that we received.

Once inside the complex, we were overcome with a dazzling array of mini temples, people praying, families having picnics, and monks in a rainbow of coloured robes. With very few westerners in sight, we quickly became the most photographed non-Myanmarese at the temple. Julie was to star in many a family photo (must be the pasty English skin). The shyer locals would walk past giggling. An extraordinary but pleasing experience.

monk_reading_boy_smartphone_shwedagon-pagoda_yangon_myanmar.jpg

This Pagoda and the people enjoying it was our first real Myanmar experience. Julie, found it very emotional, almost overwhelming, in a good way. A perfect introduction to Myanmarese culture.

It’s not Central Park

From the temple, we headed across the road to the People’s Park. Entrance costs US$3, with an additional US$3 camera fee if you plan on taking photos. The camera fee is quite standard not only in Myanmar but in other parts of South-East Asia.

Along with courting couples, the park is home to an array of plant life, much of it indigenous to Myanmar. Randomly a couple of old planes have been dropped in one corner. Have to admit that the park is a bit barren and apart from offering a different view of the Shwedagon Pagoda there’s little to get excited about.

The Immense Chaukhtatgyi Buddha

After a tricky conversation and much map pointing, we persuaded a taxi driver to take us to our next port of call. Having a map with you with the local spellings certainly helps.

In what looks like an aircraft hanger, one of the most revered and largest reclining Buddhas rests. From tip to toe, this reclining Buddha is 66 metres (217 feet). The scale is vast, the glass eyes alone are nearly two metres wide. That said, it only takes 10 minutes or so to wander around.

Dodging the traffic, we crossed the road to visit the Ngahtatgyi Buddha Temple. The pagoda is home to a 10 metre high seated Buddha.

Cheap as chips, the Circular Train

The following day we spent the princely sum of US$0.15, yep that’s not a typo. Fifteen US cents buys you an incredible three-hour journey covering a large slice of life in Yangon.

The circular train leaves platform 7 of the central station and travels 46 kilometres (28.5 miles) through the city, into the surrounding lush countryside and back again scooping up commuters along the way.

First thing in the morning is the perfect time to experience daily life. The train is buzzing with locals going back and forth to the markets, passing baskets of food through the windows. These markets swamp the various station platforms; then they give way to dense green fields of watercress. Farmers knee-deep in water tending to their precious crops.

workers_in_watercress_fields_circular_train_yangon_myanmar.jpg.jpg

trackside_market_circular_train_yangon_myanmar.jpg.jpg

Some of the journey does tug at the heartstrings. Abject poverty is visible along the route. The poorest scrapping a living amongst the waves of rubbish that drift along the tracks.

Ladies with ladened food trays perched on their heads plied their trade throughout our journey.

The number of passengers ebbed and flowed as we passed through the many stations. We found ourselves sitting on opposite sides of the carriage to get different views. At one stop the train filled up quickly, and a local family joined Julie. As usual, there were lots of smiles and giggles, particularly notably when they offered her a taste of a snack purchased from one of the ladies with the trays. Lots more giggles as Julie bit into a slice of fruit covered in chilli flakes. Apparently, it tasted quite good.

Downtown Yangon

We rounded off our three days in Yangon with a self-guided walk (Lonely Planet Book) of the old town. As we weaved in and out of narrow streets, we discovered old colonial buildings. Some standing proud, some sagging, as time and abandonment take their toll. Pansodan Road is home to a bustling outdoor bookstore with tens of books stalls lining the street. If you haven’t already, you can pick up a copy of George Orwell’s “Burmese Days”. An intriguing insight into all that was wrong with the British rule of Burma. Or a more attention-grabbing sub-headline of 'A Saga of Jungle Hate & Lust'.

Having walked up an appetite, we grabbed lunch at 999 Noddles. A bargain at just NZ$5.50 (US$4) for three delicious dishes and two drinks.

Yangon is a fascinating city with plenty to see and do. Some of the gems can easily be found, and some need a little uncovering. The noise level on the streets can be a bit overwhelming at times. Taxi drivers appeared to have their hands glued to the horn. The cacophony of noise adds to the buzz of this intriguing city.

But we were ready for something a bit more peaceful and beautiful. The temples of Bagan were beckoning. Read more in part two, coming soon.

You can read more about what is happening in Myanmar right now in this BBC article: Myanmar Rohingya: What you need to know about the crisis

If you would like to support the Oxfam Emergency Appeal, please click here.

Next Bite: The Beautiful Bagan Temples

An amazing story of love, kindness and sacrifice for Bali Dogs

Two months in Bali, must have been paradise? Well it was and it wasn't. We house sat 8 rescue dogs and had our hearts broken.

Bobby, Mandi, Gipsy, Ninjo, Bule, Susu, Madu, and Lou scampered down the deserted beach. The boys crashed into the raging surf while Gipsy rolled around in the black sand. Our twice daily walks with our eight Bali dog charges made us feel extremely fortunate to have the lifestyle that we have.

The beach was just a 5-minute walk, past rice fields and a couple of expensive looking resorts. The dogs knew every inch of this walk, including which house to tip-toe passed so as not to upset a neighbourhood dog in Lou's case.

The beach was the perfect place for the dogs to play, sniff, and blow off some steam. They also enjoyed picking through the food offerings laid down by the Hindu villagers.

This was to be our daily routine for two months. That was until disaster struck.

Coming back from our usual walk late one Sunday afternoon, Mandi (the oldest female dog and pack mediator) picked up some discarded food at the top of the driveway. Before we knew what was happening Mandi was fitting and convulsing violently. Wrapping her up in a towel, we jumped on the scooter and sped to the nearest vet.

House sitting our way around the world

Two and half years ago Julie and I quit our corporate day jobs and set off to explore this beautiful planet. We stumbled into house sitting by accident after reading a travel blog. During the last 30 months, we have house sat in Italy, New Zealand, USA, UK, Thailand, and Indonesia. We have been very fortunate to look after some wonderful pets and make some amazing new friends.

Most of the dogs and cats that we have cared for have had a perfect start in life. Taken in as puppies or kittens by loving owners and treated as one of the family. There has been the odd rescue dog and feral cat but nothing like what we volunteered for in Bali.

Now just about anybody would jump at the opportunity to spend two months in the tropical paradise of Bali. There was no shortage of applicants for this sit. In fact, we weren't the first choice. But when the original house sitter pulled out for health reasons, Eli contacted us and asked if we would step in. We were over the moon, doggie heaven on a tropical island.

All is not well in paradise

The relationship between the Balinese and one of the oldest dog breeds in the world is one of convenience. The Bali dog has roamed the streets of this island for thousands of years. Unlike most domestic breeds the Bali dog has remained fiercely independent and can survive without human contact.

Some Balinese dog owners care for their dogs in the same way we do in Western countries. However, the vast majority have a very different relationship with their dogs, more like a co-existence, a sharing of space with the dog coming and going as it pleases. For the Balinese, a dog provides security against spirits and thieves, keeps the rat population down, and is a companion to children. For the dog, they get somewhere relatively safe to lay their heads at night as well as some food scraps to supplement their scavenging.

But when the dog becomes ill, falls pregnant, or when their owners can no longer afford to keep them, they are left to fend for themselves often in deplorable condition. Bali dogs face other challenges too.

In 2008 there was a rabies outbreak that killed 78 people within 12 months and resulted in nearly three-quarters of the 600,000 dog population being culled. Today the local government runs a regular rabies injection programme. Coloured neck ribbons are a clear sign that a dog has been vaccinated. Unfortunately, though, the outbreak has fueled a fear of the Bali dog that didn't exist before.

It is also estimated that 70,000 dogs each year are killed for the dog meat trade. Many of these suffer terrible, cruel deaths. A recent undercover report by Animals Australia highlighted this inhumane practice. The charity is also working hard to highlight the brutal meat trade with the Governor of Bali.

And then there are the poisonings. Some locals drop meatballs (bakso) laced with strychnine or potassium to kill unwanted and/or unwelcome dogs.

Eli's story

It is against this back drop that Eli fell in love with this corner of Indonesia while on holiday. She quit her corporate life in Switzerland exchanging it for island life quicker than you can break open a bar of Toblerone. That was four years ago since then this determined young woman has made Bali her home and set about helping as many street dogs as she can.

Eli estimates that she has spent over €50,000 of her own money rescuing, nursing back to health, and rehoming over 100 Bali dogs and cats. Spending her savings is not the only sacrifice Eli has had to make. She told us "having a long term relationship or normal friendships, are sometimes hard with my passion to help dogs and always putting them first."

She also has to jump back into the corporate world for a few months each year to top up the bank account. This is when she seeks out trusted house sitters to take care of her much loved pack.

The eight pups that we were looking after were all in pretty bad shape (click here for photos of when rescued, images are pretty graphic) when Eli rescued them. The worse being Ninjo, who was suffering from a severe case of mange, distemper and was malnourished. The photos of Ninjo before treatment are heartbreaking. It was touch and go if he would make it at all. But after several months of intensive vet care, and two years of fortnightly injections for demodex and mange. He beat the odds and is now a big cuddly mutt, very loyal, gentle, and loving. We don't have favourites but….

Susu, one of the teenagers, was another one that was in terrible condition. He was found in a nearby rice field with a broken pelvis, mange, very malnourished and with a high temperature from an infection. Today Susu would not look out of place in a Disney movie. He's so soft and loving. Quite a goofball at times.

Each of the dogs has their own story of survival, each one of them lucky to have found a loving friend in Eli. But Eli would say she is the lucky one. As much as she would like to, Eli is unable to help every dog.

Race to Survive

Clutching Mandi, we ran into the vet surgery. Five veterinarian staff immediately began trying to combat the poison with saline drips, K1 vitamin injections, and a charcoal solution.

Despite a valiant effort, there was little they could do. Her age and size made an impossible task even harder, and sadly Mandi passed away. The vet told us that he had seen ten dogs that week due to poisoning, they only managed to save one.

Having gone back to the house to check on the other dogs, Bule, a young bitch, was showing signs of poisoning. Clutching Bule under my arm, I rode one-handed on the scooter to the vets through the madness of Bali traffic putting both our lives in danger.

Unlike Mandi, Bule had size and youth on her side. It was a tense couple of hours as the vets treated her. She responded well, and we are pleased to report that Bule is back to her normal self and enjoying beach life.

The manner of Mandi's death changed the dynamics of the house sit for all of us. From that point on we transported the dogs twice a day to the beach in a trailer hitched to a scooter. Our hearts beating faster every time one of the dogs picked something up on the beach (including a rotting chicken corpse). She was only a little dog, but Mandi left a big hole in the pack dynamics and our hearts.

An almost impossible task

Contrary to popular belief, the Bali dog can be trained. These eight pups are a testament to this. With support from a local friend, Eli has put in many hours of training with each dog to help them adjust from street life to pampered pets.

We have been blown away by the passion and enthusiasm that Eli has for her Bali dog rescues. At times it feels like an almost impossible task. Like painting the Golden Gate bridge with a toothbrush and one arm tied behind your back. It's relentless, but one of the many things that Eli has going for her is determination, by the bucket load.

Since returning to Bali several weeks ago, Eli has provided treatment for cancer and mange to seven street dogs. She has also fostered Moka a young pup with no back legs.

All this comes at a cost

You can make a difference to a Bali dog's chance of survival and help Eli to continue with her marathon efforts.

Make a donation using the Paypal account ‘help4balisstreetdogs@gmx.com' to her charity Help 4 Bali's Street Dogs Every cent/penny/rupiah counts.

For example, it costs in US$:

$10 - Food for a week for one dog
$30 - Complete vaccination programme
$65 - Sterilise female dog
$26 - Sterilise male dog
$15 - Treat mange and any parasites for three months

It has been a privilege to house sit for Eli and her gang of eight. We hope to see them again soon.

In memory of Mandi

Discovering Laos: Things to Do in Vientiane

Join us as we soak up Laos culture in the capital city, Vientiane. We share our thoughts on the best things to do as we sample a little street life.

Covered in dust and with grins a mile wide we said farewell to Tom at the Kasi International Bus Station (more of a barren piece of land). Our luxury coach south from Kasi was another open-sided truck, this time complete with a one-eyed driver. We bounced our way through the vibrant, lush countryside, surrounded at times by towering karst formations.

One night in Vang Vieng

We spent just 18 hours in Vang Vieng which used to be known as the hell hole of South East Asia. Backpackers descended on this town back in the late 90’s. Back then a litre of rice whisky was cheaper than water. Bars sprung up on a daily basis along a one kilometre stretch of the river. Add in a fast following river and you have a recipe for disaster. Tubing and Ziplining quickly became the in thing. There was hardly a week went by without some young traveller scoring a first class ticket home in a lie flat coffin. Today it is a little calmer, but still full of young backpackers hugging tightly to a tube of rubber.

Keen to leave Vang Vieng at the earliest opportunity, at the bus station we were very impressed with the VIP bus that would whisk us to Vientiane. Trouble was that one wasn't our bus. Ours was a tired old trooper that coughed and wheezed its way to the capital.

Giving Vientiane Some Love

Like Luang Prabang, the Mekong River snakes its way alongside Vientiane, separating Laos from Thailand. Close to three-quarters of a million people live here making it Laos largest city.

Julie managed to score a cracker of a hotel for the price of a hostel. The Xaysomboun Boutique Hotel was a lot more luxury that we had been used to, there was even a pool. A perfect place to unwind for a while after the dust and grime of the previous few days.

The capital doesn’t get much love as a travellers destination. But there are enough things to do in Vientiane to keep you occupied for several days if you are prepared to put the effort in.

We were a short walk from the historic centre and the river. The park that runs alongside the river comes alive at night with a huge local market (mostly clothes and phone cases), several outdoor fitness classes, add in a thick aroma of Asian food and you have a heady cocktail of nightlife. Several of the roads leading to the park are lined with restaurants and bars, our favourtie was Tyson’s.

The Patuxai Arch or Victory Gate is a central monument that was built to celebrate those that suffered in the struggle for independence from France. Ironically it is known as the Laos version of the Arch de Triumph, only this one is not quite finished. A sign on the arch reads “From a closer distance, it is even less impressive, like a monster of concrete”. If the arch had feelings I’m sure they would be bruised at such a brutal statement.

We wandered around the Pha That Luang Temple, the national symbol of Laos. Believed to have initially been a Hindu temple in the 3rd century, this is now the most important moment in Laos. Of course the Golden Stupa was undergoing restoration, the scaffold tour continues. Across the way, is the Vat That Khao with its stunning reclining gold Budda. The gardens and various buildings that make up this complex can quickly soak away an hour or two.

The scaffold tour continues at Pha That Lung Temple

COPE Centre, a reality check

We stupidly decided to walk to our next destination which was much further than we thought. The baking sun didn't help with the navigation and harmony between the two of us.

It turns out Laos holds the dubious record of being the most bombed country in the world, relative to the size of the population. During the Vietnam War, the US dropped some two million tonnes of bombs on Laos to cut off the supply routes for the North Vietnamese Army. That equates to a plane load of bombs every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day for 9 years. Some 80 million bombs failed to explode, rendering much of the countryside off limits. The unexploded cluster bombs have killed or maimed at least 50,000 people since the end of the war, many of these children.

The COPE Centre is a non-profit organization that works in conjunction with the Laos Ministry of Health to provide support to those impacted by unexploded bombs. It is a rehabilitation centre with a focus on providing access to orthotic/prosthetic devices and services. The visitor centre provides a short and sobering insight into how the mass bombings still affect everyday life especially outside of the major centres. In a nearby sports hall, a game of wheelchair basketball was taking place.

much better than many able bodied players

There is no charge to visit the centre, but I challenge anybody to walk away without leaving a donation. In fact, we counted our blessings that we could walk away.

Street Life, Vientiane Style

Heading back to the hotel one evening, we stopped at a 7-Eleven to grab some water when we heard an awful crash. A scooter rider had t-boned a minibus. He hit the bus so hard that the windows popped out on the side of the impact. Julie quickly untangled the rider from the bike and tried to make him as comfortable as possible. In the meantime I had to get in the face of an elderly American tourist has she tried to take photos of the poor guy laying mangled on the road. An ambulance eventually turned up and we left the scene, hopefully, the young man made a full recovery.

Walking can prove to a bit of challenge in Vientiane. The locals see the pavement as ideal parking zones for scooters and cars alike. Walking does, however, throw up some interesting sites on the road as old meets new.

We wrapped up our time with visits to two nearby temples, Haw Phra Kaew and Wat Si Saket, the later is much more traditional. The central Buddha at Saket is surrounded by covered walkways containing hundreds of Buddha statues, many in need of some drastic plastic surgery.

That was Laos. A fascinating two-week insight into a South East Asia’s only landlocked country. The highlight for both of us was the time spent motorbiking with Uncle Tom’s Trails. A mixture of being outside our comfort zone, seeing rural Laos life and hanging with the cheeky Welshman. The countryside is varied and beautiful, the people so welcoming and the food is up there with the best that South East Asia has to offer. There are some sights like the Plain of Jars that we wished we had visited, any excuse to return at some stage.

Check Out - Hints & Info

We stayed at: The Xaysomboun Boutique Hotel in Vientiane, cost per night NZ$33.25 (US$24/£19) included ensuite, breakfast and pool.
We stayed at: Pam's Hostel in Vang Vieng, cost per night NZ$11.50 (US$8/£6) included nothing, not even air con. Very basic but fine for one night
We ate at: Tyson, Namaste Indian, Lao Kitchen, all very tasty and good value for money.
Bus from Luang Prabang to Kasi was NZ$14 (US$10/£8) each
Bus from Kasi to Vang Vieng was NZ$5.25 (US$3.80/£3) each
Bus from Vang Vieng to Vientiane was NZ$7 (US$5/£4) each

Adrenaline Overload: My First Motorcycle Adventure, Laos Style

Join this uncoordinated 40-something first-time rider on the best motorcycle adventure with Uncle Tom’s Trails. Seriously the best thing to do in Laos.

Our introduction to Uncle Tom didn't go quite to plan.

Just two weeks before while looking for things to do in Laos we hit upon Uncle Tom's Trails. An adventure motorcycle tour complete with tuition for the absolute beginner. It sounded perfect as we didn't fancy any of the usual things to do in Vang Vieng. We signed up for an off-road adventure through the Laos countryside.

Now as we lugged our backpacks off the minibus outside a deserted looking pink and lime green house we wondered if we were in the right place. Well, we would have been a couple of weeks ago. Uncle Tom had recently moved.

He quickly came to our rescue on his trusty Wallace & Gromit style motorbike and sidecar. We piled on complete with luggage and cruised to his new place on the outskirts of the small town of Kasi. Within five minutes we were sat supping PG Tips, eating biscuits and chatting like old friends. Our host, guide, and instructor, Steve aka Uncle Tom, with his tight curly locks and strong jaw bore a striking resemblance to the Welsh crooner Tom Jones. Welsh himself, he regaled us with countless 'dad jokes' in his dulcet tones over the next 24 hours.

Am I good enough?

With nerves mounting, it was time to see if I was good enough to tackle the overnight off-road challenge. First up a practice in the garage using a static training stand holding the back wheel in place. For 20 minutes I practiced switching between clutch and acceleration while Steve pottered around the small garden on his bike.

That mastered, we rode 5 minutes to some wasteland nearby (me on the back of Tom's bike). This wide open space was perfect for Tom to see if I could handle the bike. I practiced gear changes in sweeping figures of 8. All the time, Tom gave me guidance through my helmet earpiece. He was encouraging and patient. As my confidence began to grow, he hit me with the news that he thought I would be up to the off-road countryside adventure. A wave of excitement and fear hit me all at once. I was less confident in my ability than he was as it was taking all my concentration and focus just on mastering the gear changes and cornering.

And we're off

Throwing an overnight bag into the side car and gearing up with a funky biker jacket we headed out. Steve and I following behind Tom. The first 12 km on the tarmac was relatively easy, aside from the hundreds of kids kicking out from school riding in clumps on their push bikes.

We hit the edge of town and peeled off onto our first dirt road, still flattish at this stage so no gear changes required. Cute smiling toddlers waved and shouted 'sabaidee!' as we cruised by. We dodged cows, calves, bison, dogs, chickens, and piglets as the road quality deteriorated.

Water buffalo and calf, just another obstacle.

The road, or rather track, now featured long ruts and gullies from rain water challenging me to plan my path ahead. It became hillier testing my gear changes. With my concentration levels now maxed out, Tom kept feeding me a steady stream of instructions, encouragement and bad jokes through the earpiece.

And then there was the dust. Lots of it. Some of it was so thick that it nearly derailed me as I lost control. Putting my feet down to steady myself I sprayed a thick coat all over my legs, but I managed to stay upright.

Further on, the road was being widened and the workers had sprayed the surface making it wet and slippery. I stalled and skidded here and there but stayed upright. I was getting better, my confidence continued to improve and I started to relax a bit and take in the beautiful scenery.

The Laos countryside is just so beautiful.

As the sun began to dip, we stopped for fresh watermelon at the side of the road. The entire familywere very amused that Tom teaches foreigners how to ride a motorbike. They pretty much learn from birth. This amusement turned to giggles as they watched me repeatedly stall and stutter as I tried to pull away smoothly. Up until now, Tom had been giving me push starts in second gear so I could focus on the main riding skills first.

Beerlao o'clock

Eventually, we arrived in a small village, collapsing in a bar waiting for the owner to rock up and reward us with a cold Beerlao or two.

A wave of exhaustion hit me from the mental concentration and physical exertion over the last four hours. As a newbie, you grip the bike tighter than a python grips his lunch. I could have fallen asleep on the spot.

After inhaling two beers, which went straight to my head, Tom suggested we check into the guesthouse. In Tom's unique cheeky style he said the guesthouse was 3 km away. Feeling tired and maybe a bit squiffy, I said I don't think I should ride. So he gave me a lift, all of 300 metres. Funny guy.

We grabbed a shower to wash off the thick crust of dust before heading back to the bar for a tasty dinner of pumpkin soup, fried rice and morning glory. Oh, and a couple more beers. We crawled into bed and slept like babies.

Back on the 'road' again

Steve disappeared off early to check out the local market. Thankfully he passed up on buying the dead snake and rats that were on offer.

Leaving around 8 am we headed towards the mountains behind the village. As the scenery got more and more stunning, the road got more and more challenging. Large rain ruts threatened to derail any rider who didn't choose the correct path to navigate them. There was a testing hill to negotiate, both up and down. I nailed it with Tom's guidance.

More villages, livestock to circumnavigate and lovely waving children before my final biking challenge. A river crossing. Steve had managed one the day before, but it was well above my comfort zone. Today, although still scared, I decided to give it a go. The stony riverbed tried its best to eject me, but I wobbled my way across with dry feet. I was thrilled.

The finish line

As we cruised the lovely smooth tarmac road back into Kasi, it seemed so easy after the dirt tracks. Less than 24 hours ago I had never ridden a motorbike and here I was 140 km of riding under my belt, much of it off-road.

My bum may have been as numb as stone, my back achy and my hands had a couple of blisters, but I did it! And it was fantastic. Tom made the whole experience brilliant, even with his non-stop terrible jokes, which by the way, were a great distraction.

Truly, one of the best things we have done in a long time.

So, what are you waiting for? Jump out of your comfort zone and onto two wheels, there is some breath-taking Laos countryside out there to explore and Uncle Tom is the man to explore it with.

A big thank you to Uncle Tom for a fun filled adventure.

Check Out - Some practical stuff

Is this suitable for me, I have never ridden a motorbike before? Trust me, if this uncoordinated 40-something can do it, you can. It helps that Tom is an incredibly patient and encouraging teacher. Once he has assessed you, he recommends the best route based on your abilities.

What do I need to bring? While riding, you need to cover up as it is hot and dusty. Wear long trousers, hiking shoes or trainers, and a t-shirt. Tom will provide you with a helmet, jacket, dust mask, and goggles, although I preferred my buff and sunglasses.

You can store your stuff at Tom’s place. You only need to bring an overnight bag with a change of clothes and the essential toiletries if you do the village stay.

Where is Uncle Tom? How do I find him? Tom is just outside the town of Kasi, on Route 13 between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng. Local buses from Vang Vieng take about 90 minutes. We came from Luang Prabang where you can take the bus or minivan (4 hours). Tom kindly arrange seats on a minivan for us which dropped us right at his door, albeit at his old house!

How big is the group? Usually, Tom only takes out two people at a time, that way you get focused teaching. For this reason, book as far ahead as you can to ensure a space.

To find out more or contact Uncle Tom: https://www.facebook.com/uncletomstrails/

Discovering Laos: Things to Do in Luang Prabang

Join us as we soak up Laos culture with a French twist in Luang Prabang. We share our thoughts on the best things to do & why Luang Prabang should be on your Laos itinerary.

Luang Prabang hugs the bank of the Mekong River and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The French colonial influence evident in the buildings as you wander the main streets. We chose to spend our first week in a brand new country for us soaking up Laos culture in this quiet laid-back former capital.

The majestic Haw Pha Bang, part of the Royal Palace complex

Our journey from the airport was in a shared open taxi, the driver magically remembering where each of us needed to be dropped off. Our guest house, Souk Lan Xang, a traditional wooden house built in 1955. Spacious with all the mod cons, including on our first night, a raucous party next door. Our host, assuring us that this was a one-off, and it was.

The main road is crammed full of cafes, bars, and restaurants. Perfect for watching the world drift passed. With the French connection, there are lots of pastries in the cafes to tempt the sweet tooth. Breakfast most days was in one of the cafes overlooking the Mekong.

One of our favourite meals was at Joy’s. Here we tried the traditional Laos dish Laab, albeit a vegetarian version, incredibly tasty. We also had a chance to chat with owner Joy about life in Luang Prabang.

Each night there is a market aimed mostly at tourists that stretched for a couple of a hundred metres. Here you can buy your ‘Same Same, But Different' T-shirts, along with bamboo speakers for your phone and bottles of rice whisky, complete with scorpions for additional flavour.

At the far end of the market is a narrow alleyway jam-packed with food stalls. Grab a bowl and fill it with a variety of local cuisines including barbecued Mekong River fish. Without the fish, it is just NZ$2 (US$1.50/£1.10) a bowl. The fish costs between NZ$3 - NZ$10 (US$2-US$7/£1.70-£5.70) depending on size, a bargain and very tasty.

Early morning a local food market runs downs the side of the Royal Palace. Certainly worth a visit to soak up the dizzying array of smells and colours. Be warned though some stalls are not for the faint-hearted.

One evening we jumped on one of the many long river boats that ply their trade on the Mekong for a sunset cruise, this one run by Sa Sa. It came complete with complimentary mojitos served by a cheeky young chappy. The haze provided an effective sunblock but ruined any chance of getting that killer photo.

Another vantage point to watch the sun go down is at the top of Mount Phou Si. You have to be at the top early to grab a good spot as most of the tourists in town seemed to venture up each night. But don't let that dampen the shimmering golden vista that is on offer most nights.

How Tourists ruined the Alms Giving Ceremony

One of the draw cards for many visitors is the alms giving ceremony. The ceremony takes place each morning at sunrise. In days gone by Buddhist monks in their bright orange robes would file through the streets receiving a gift of sticky rice from the local women. The offering is said to build a connection between the humans (locals) and the spiritual (monks/nuns) and is not, as often perceived by westerners, a form of charity.

Today the ceremony in Luang Prabang, for the most part, is a total sham. Some locals sell dodgy stale rice to the tourists, who then line the pavement on coloured plastic stools (too posh to squat on the floor). There are tour groups of people complete with their Laos-style sash that hand out bags of crackers, biscuits and other sugar-filled crap that the monks discard in the nearest bin as soon as they can. Then to top if off, you have tourists who think it’s their God-given right to shove their camera into the faces of the monks as they walk by.

We had a good idea of what the ceremony had turned into but we wanted to see it with our own eyes. Even still we were shocked and outraged at the behaviour of our fellow travellers. Keeping our distance, we saw one local man intervene on several occasions as camera-wielding tourists blocked the path of the monks. Local rumour has it that the monks wanted to stop the sham of a ceremony, but the Laos Government has insisted it continue in case it hurts tourism.

Away from the main street, one or two locals do still find space to honour this long-standing tradition, away from the hoards of self-indulgent, self-centered tourists.

A quiet side street and an opportunity to practise a tradition in peace

The best way to witness this tradition, be it in Luang Prabang or elsewhere is by keeping a respectable distance. Your photos come a distant second to the needs of those taking part in this tradition.

Making a difference at Big Brother Mouse

On a more positive note, Big Brother Mouse is a local charity where tourists can make a real difference. Just off the main road is a buzzy office where young locals gather twice a day to practice their English. Tourists are invited to sit down and chat with the mostly young guys who have a barrage of questions relating to learning English.

A couple of hours here zooms past, as you help the community enrich their education. We talked about New Zealand, the All Blacks, and the Haka, the countries we had visited and our adventures in general. Those attending soaking up knowledge like eager sponges. And in return, we got to learn more about local customs and the Laos way of life. If you are visiting Luang Prabang, please pay a visit to this worthwhile charity.

The Sparkling Waters of Kuang Si Waterfalls

Our only excursion outside of town was to the popular Kuang Si Waterfalls. We booked a day trip through White Elephant Adventures. We had high expectations as the price was almost double the cost of other trips to the waterfalls, but this one did include a hike, lunch and a visit to the local hill tribes.

Our guide Yue was very enthusiastic and relatively new to the job, just two weeks in. Along with two French girls, we jumped into the back of an open-sided truck. An hour later we arrived at the first hill tribe village very dusty and bruised from bouncing along the dirt track roads.

The hill tribes in this area are the Hmong and Khanu. Visiting villages is not quite our thing. It always feels like you are imposing on the local life. This was a little different as the hike started at the village and wound its way through the several kilometres of countryside, passing rubber plantations on the way to the waterfalls.

In the first village, we picked up a local guide, all of 13 years of age. I was also charmed out of NZ$1 by two giggly young girls who were selling bracelets.

Playground games are the same the world over

We stopped for a lunch of veggies and rice at the source of the river that feeds the waterfalls. The last part of the walk was all downhill and pretty tricky given that there had been quite a bit of rain in recent days.

At the top of the falls, some wooden platforms provide a stunning view of the surrounding countryside. There are also natural pools for swimming and chilling out.

The crowds increased dramatically at the bottom of the multi-tiered falls. But with a little patience, we managed to get a couple of photos without people. I do love a good waterfall.

I had a quick dip in one of the pools good for swimming, the water cool but sparkling. Julie stood guard over our belongings.

Free The Bears, So Cuddly

On the way out of the park, there is the Free the Bears, Sun Bear Rescue Centre. Donations fund the centre and the bears have either come from captivity or have been found abandoned in the wild. The enclosures look a little tired, but the bears themselves looked in excellent condition and appeared to be happy in their surroundings. We were surprised that they don't charge a small admission fee. We did buy a T-shirt to help support this worthy cause.

Value for money for the day, hmmm borderline? We did make one or two suggestions to the owner who seemed to take our thoughts on board.

On our return to Luang Prabang, we had bottle or two of the national export, BeerLao at Utopia, a cafe-come-bar overlooking the Nam Khan River. Plenty of chill out space for the young and not-so-young.

Luang Prabang is a busy wee town, but it didn't feel overwhelming. Despite the many visitors the town has managed to retain a gentle pace of life. During the day most visitors are out of town exploring the surrounding countryside. In the evenings there is enough choice of restaurants and bars that it sometimes feels almost empty. The busy season is January and February when the weather is a little cooler. For us, it was time to head south and to experience a first for both of us.

Not so 'Hairy' Motorbikers

Our next stop was the small town of Kasi, to try our hand at riding a motorbike. Transport South was in the form of an air-conditioned minibus which was full to bursting. Thankfully we were one of the first to be collected, so we had the pick of the seats. However, the last pick up saw a French guy completely lose his cool. He was not happy that either he or his girlfriend would have to sit in the jump seat next to the driver. She hid with embarrassment around the side of the van as he unloaded on the driver. A young Canadian guy stepped forward and offered to swap places, not even a hint of a thank you from Monsieur Angry. Onto to Kasi, read more in Adrenaline Overload: My First Motorcycle Adventure, Laos Style.

Check Out - hints and info

We flew from Bangkok to Luang Prabang with AirAsia price including checked in bag, NZ$102 (US$74/£58)
We stayed at Souk Lan Xang NZ$29.00 (US$20.00) per night, large double room with ensuite
We ate at Joy’s Restaurant, Delilah's, and Amigos, all great value for money and really good food.
We visited Kuang Si Waterfalls with White Elephant Adventures NZ$70 (US$51/£40) included transport, guide, village fee, waterfall park fee and lunch. Plus a 10% off voucher for food at Utopia.
Sunset cruise with Sa Sa Cruises. Price included free cocktail (or was it built into the cost?) NZ$12 (US$8.70/£6.85)

Checking Out Chiang Rai: The Perfect 1-Day Itinerary

Planning a day trip to Chiang Rai? Check out our suggested 1-day itinerary which scoops up the best things to do and see.

Most people have heard of Chiang Rai's iconic White Temple. But what about its other colourful attractions and things to do? Is it worth the trek from Chiang Mai?

Well, yes, we feel two nights with one full day is the perfect amount of time to experience what this small city has to offer.

The VIP bus from Chiang Mai is the easiest and most comfortable way to pass the 3-hour journey. A quick 5-minute walk from the bus station is the friendly Guesthouse, Grandma Kaew's.

Arriving in Chiang Rai around midday leaves you a few hours to explore downtown and hire a scooter from Chiang Rai Big Bike Rentals ready for tomorrow's adventure. A scooter is a quick and practical way to hit the key attractions at the best time of day.

Spend the evening hanging out with the locals at the Night Bazaar. Skip the more touristy and expensive teak restaurant area, opting for the outdoor food court with food stalls down each side. Soak up the local live music show while you cook your own Pad Thai at your table.

Ready to kick off the day? Don't forget to dress modestly for the temples, with covered knees and shoulders.

MORNING

1. Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple)

Front view of the White Temple looking across the small lake.

Set your alarm early. To get the best of the number one attraction, you need to be there early to beat the crowds. Head off between 7.00am - 7.30am if you can on the main road south (Highway 1) towards Doi Luang National Park and Lampang. Watch the traffic on this busy dual carriageway. At times you can ride on a parallel side road, which is less hair-raising.

At first sight, the temple is striking, its mirrored mosaics glimmering in the early morning sun. Before you pay to enter, grab some wide shots across the water before too many people in their garish shirts crash your pictures as they cross the temple bridge.

The 50 baht ticket price is excellent value for this unique, contemporary work of art. Privately owned by Chalermchai Kositpipat who designed, constructed and opened it to the public in 1997. Construction is still ongoing. Take your time soaking up the intricate details. You can't miss the sea of hands reaching out to grab the sinners, pulling them into the underworld.

These crazy looking hands reaching out to grab sinners and drag them down to the underworld.

The mural inside the main building, Phra Ubisoft, is particularly unique depicting western idols such as Michael Jackson, Harry Potter and Superman as well as technological developments like mobile phones and nuclear weapons. This melds around the walls to more peaceful images of worshipers floating on clouds towards the Buddha. No photos are allowed inside which is disappointing (we may have snuck a couple of photos). It's worth looping back around for a second look.

The grounds are also worth exploring, lots of little details, with traditional Thai as well as Western references, such as the Freddie Kruger head. The ticket price also includes an exhibition by Kositpipat, which shows how his unusual style has evolved.

2. Singha Park

Turning left out of Wat Rong Khun, you can take the back road back towards Chiang Rai, passing Singha Park.

A somewhat clinical looking place that is way too large to walk around. You can hire bicycles (150 baht p/hour) or take the electric shuttle tour (50 baht p/person, 1 hour, in Thai). We skipped this as it felt quite pricey and touristy. Still good for a quick stop for a cold drink and a photo with the infamous golden lion.

3. Baan Dam Museum (Black House Museum)

dark brooding buildings at the Black House Museum

Heading back toward Chiang Mai, scoot passed the town onto Highway 1 north. A little way out, you will find another unusual artistic creation by Thawan Duchanee (located at 414 Moo 13, Chiang Rai).

Almost 40 wooden, glass and concrete structures in various styles litter the extensive grounds. Inside many buildings, you will find Thawan's collection of paintings, sculptures, animal bones, skins and horns. Being animal-loving vegetarians this didn't really do it for us, we preferred the outside architecture instead.

Eighty baht entrance, with a number of restaurants nearby. A good place to take a break for an early lunch after exploring the museum.

AFTERNOON

4. Rong Sear Tean (The Blue Temple)

Heading back toward Chiang Rai, before crossing the Mae Kok river you will find Rong Sear Tean (located at 306 Moo 2, Rim Kok, Muang Chiang Rai).

Smaller than the White Temple, but still packing a 'wow' punch, a blue one. The temple was completed in 2016, contemporary Buddhist art is simultaneously striking and peaceful. With no admission fee, the Blue Temple is a unique and welcome addition to the multitude of Thai temples.

5. Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Head back toward the town centre. Wat Phra Kaew is a few streets north (located on Trairat Road, Wiang sub-district, Muang Chiang Rai).

Understated but still one of the oldest and most famous temples in Thailand. Wat Phra Kaew was the original home for the translucent green Buddha which graces the Emerald Buddha Temple in Bangkok's Grand Palace. It was discovered in 1434 after lightning struck an old Chedi. In October 1991, a replica carved out of Canadian jade was installed in the Wat.

6. Cat n a Cup Cafe

Cruise back down the main street towards Grandma Kaew's. Cat n a Cup is on the corner of Prasopsook Road and Phaholyothin Road (located at 430 Prasopsook Road, Chiang Rai).

Not a cat person? Neither are we! But the curiously diverse selection of kitties sways even the hardest anti-feline heart. Great coffee, icy cold air conditioning and kitty kisses make this a perfect place for an afternoon break.

Escape the heat with an afternoon snooze and shower back at Grandma's, before venturing out for the evening.

EVENING

Time for a mooch around town before dinner.

7. Wat Chet Yod

Easily walkable from Grandma Kaew's, this small temple felt well-loved and used by the locals. The giant seated Buddha was undergoing a new golden spray tan (paint) when we visited.

8. Jet Yod Road

Pick a spot for a pre-dinner beer or cocktail and watch the world go by. Jet Yod Road is the perfect place with several bars and cafes.

9. Clock Tower

The brighly lit clock tower comes alive each evening

Head towards Barrab for dinner, stopping at the nearby Clock Tower to see the light and sound display. At 7pm, 8pm and 9pm nightly.

A fairly unusual attraction to say least. This large clock tower which acts as a traffic roundabout undergoes a nightly light and sound show. For about 7 minutes loud music blares out while brightly coloured lights sweep over the clock tower. And the traffic keeps swinging by as tourists snap their pictures.

10. Barrab

A 3-minute walk from the Clock Tower, you will find Barrab (located 423/3 Banphaprakan Road, Chiang Rai).

Full disclosure, we didn't eat here, but we tried to! It was closed for some renovations. The menu looked delicious with veggie and non-veggie options. The reviews for food and service look great too. Alas, it was the Night Baazar again for us. Which suited us just fine.

So that was it. A whistle-stop tour of Chiang Rai's eccentric mix of attractions. Chiang Rai's relaxed atmosphere a welcome relief from the hectic Chiang Mai traffic. Definitely worth the journey.

Want to Ride an Elephant? How to Choose an Ethical Alternative and Why.

Many bucket lists include riding an elephant or elephant trekking, but is that dream ethical? Find out why it's time to update your list with our elephant friendly alternatives.

What’s on your bucket list? See the northern lights in Iceland? Trek to Machu Picchu? Swim with dolphins in Mexico? Ride an elephant in Thailand?

Everyone has a list. Whether it's stored in the back of your brain or pinned on the fridge with ticks against it.

But do we take the time to check if our dreams are actually ethical? Most people who want to swim with dolphins or ride an elephant want to do so because they love animals. But many don't realise that their once-in-a-lifetime experience is anything but that for the elephant or the dolphin.

I've been there. I didn't know better. I do now. Knowledge is a powerful thing as they say. This article is to give you knowledge and power to make an ethical choice when picking an elephant experience for your bucket list.

Elephnat Nature Park offers a safe haven for rescued elephants. Many of these have been rescued from illegal logging operations. Volunteering here gets as close as you possibly get to these gentle giants.

So exactly what does ethical mean?

Ethical tourism, also called responsible tourism, mean thinking about the consequences of your actions as a tourist on the environment, local people and local economy. Not only thinking about it, but acting on it. We have a choice on how, when, and where we spend our tourist dollars.

When it comes to elephants, it means choosing an experience which allows the elephant to exhibit its natural behaviour in a safe and non-threatening environment. It means the elephant has access to food, water, shade and dust or mud.

Why does it matter?

Many Trip Advisor reviewers rave about their elephant experience. How the elephants 'seemed' happy. But the well hidden secret of elephant tourism, and that includes circuses, zoos, trekking camps, shows and street begging, is 'the crush'. Have you ever wondered how one small man can make an enormous elephant paint a picture, stand on its head or allow people to ride on its back?

The answer is something called the crush, or Phajaan in Thailand. Other countries have different names but the process is the same. The vast majority of elephants you see in elephant tourism have experienced it. Stolen from its mother in the wild, the baby elephant aged three to six years old is confined in a small wooden frame no bigger than its body. Where it will be shackled by chains or ropes. Where it will be beaten with a bamboo stick with nails in it. Where it will be bludgeoned with a bull hook (imagine an ice pick with a wooden handle). Where it will be deprived of food and water. For at least a week. Until its spirit literally breaks. Until it no longer recognises its mother. And its mother doesn't recognise it.

Baby elephant at Elephant Nature Park. This one will not have to go through the Phajaan, or crush.

The baby elephant is now ready for training. This again can be brutal, particularly when training an elephant to do something very unnatural, such as painting or circus tricks.

Heartbreaking isn't it? I have tears in my eyes just writing this. I was sobbing when I saw a YouTube video of a crush. It's not something you would imagine. But it happens to almost every single elephant you see at a circus, in a zoo, in a trekking camp or at an elephant show.

But don't despair, you can still have an amazing once-in-a-lifetime elephant experience which is ethical for the elephant too.

How to choose an ethical elephant experience

The Truly Wild Experience

The most ethical of all experiences is to watch wild elephants in their natural habitat. Elephants who have never experienced the crush. You will feel a vibrant energy from them. The 'wildness' I guess. There is nothing quite like it when a giant bull elephant strides straight towards your jeep as you beat an adrenal-charged retreat!

When choosing this kind of experience:

Look for a guided jeep tour where you can watch from a safe distance
Avoid 'safaris' that offer riding
Research carefully 'elephant orphanages' as babies are often poached from the wild

Elephants on the Elephant Nature Park sponsored Journey to Freedom project live in pretty much as close to their natural environment as possible.

The Next Best Thing

Sanctuaries which rescue abused elephants from tourism or illegal logging are the next best option. Genuine sanctuaries will allow elephants to live out their days in as close to a wild environment as they can. Elephant Nature Park (ENP) in Thailand and its partner programmes across Thailand, Cambodia, and Myanmar excel at this. Here tourists can feed and bathe elephants. There are no bull hooks and training is done with positive reinforcement.

Depending on how adventurous you are, you can also volunteer for a week. We have volunteered at both ENP and Journey to Freedom. It's a great way to give your love (and tourist dollars) to rescued elephants. You also get to immerse yourself in elephant life, learning about the herd, and watching intricate behaviours. The time six-month-old Kili tried to sit on my lap as she learned to climb a dusty slope still brings a broad grin to my face even now. More here.

Baby elephant Kili building up her strength by charging up the dusty slopes of her enclosure.

When choosing this kind of experience:

Look for camps that offer no riding, no shows, no performances
Avoid any camps that offer 'mahout training' as this often includes bare-necked riding
Research carefully the use of bull hooks as this isn't always clear. If in doubt ask directly how the camp trains its elephants

Will it really be as good as riding an elephant?

Research shows that an elephant's spine is not designed to carry a heavy load. It is not structured in the same way as a horse for example. The 'howdahs' or saddles fully-laden with tourists can weight between 300-500 kg. Also, sat up there how are you sharing a beautiful moment with such a majestic creature?

Instead you could be sharing moments like these:

At the Elephant Nature Park we sat under three elephants, feeding them bananas and water melon

A magical moment with Lek, the founder of Elephant Nature Park

Elephants enjoying a mud bath at Elephant Nature Park, Thailand.

A note on other elephant experiences

Street begging, elephant painting, any kind of shows - please avoid them. I know it is difficult to walk away as you want to help the elephants but the best way to help them is to not hand over money or food. This perpetuates the elephant's misery and encourages more elephants to be used in this way.

Final note

Don't be too hard on yourself. We have all been there. We don't know what we don't know. But you know about elephants in tourism now. Time to update that bucket list? How about changing 'Ride an elephant' to 'Feed an elephant bananas by hand' or 'Hike into the jungle and watch an elephant devour a banana tree'?

The more we choose ethical experiences, the more it encourages non-ethical camps to change.

Enjoy your elephant experience. If it is anything like mine, it will be more than a once-in-a-lifetime thing. As elephant time becomes quite addictive!

Useful links to further your elephant education

http://www.saveelephant.org

http://www.elephantexperts.org/index.html

https://www.thailandelephants.org

http://www.bornfree.org.uk/animals/asian-elephants/

https://landlopers.com/2014/08/18/elephant-rides (An interview with Diana Edelman, from the Save Elephant Foundation).

Elephant Love: A Week Volunteering at Journey to Freedom, Thailand

Seven captivating days getting to know seven elephants really well, including a 6-month-old calf. Journey to Freedom is our second full blown elephant experience.

March 2017

Back in 2014 we had a life changing week volunteering at the Elephant Nature Park (ENP), 90 minutes north of Chaing Mai, Thailand. Seven fun-filled days shoveling elephant poo, washing out sleeping enclosures, unloading tons of pumpkins and bananas, making food patties, digging trenches and spending quality time admiring these gorgeous animals up close. Oh and we also made new life long friends too.

Totally smitten, we wanted more elephant time but this time something different. Something more rustic with a smaller group of people and a chance to see elephants in a more natural environment. We ended up choosing an ENP sponsored project called Journey to Freedom (J2F). Situated in the hills of Northern Thailand, 3 hours from Chiang Mai. This project ticked all the boxes, including visits to a local Karen tribe village.

The idea behind the project is that the local villagers bring home the elephants they own (yes we had to put ‘ownership’ to one side), ENP provides some financial support and volunteers to help make the whole experience work. Previously these elephants had been leased out to trekking camps and tourist shows. The J2F project is currently supporting 7 elephants including a 6-month-old baby. The hope is that in future more and more elephants will be brought back to the area surrounding the villages for a happier less stressful life.

To continue receiving the support of ENP, the villages commit to not using bull hooks or cruelty. Each elephant has its own mahout and there are no forced activities. To provide protection for the elephants they are taken back to the village each night and kept in enclosures. During the daytime they roam through the jungle, creating a path of destruction as they search for food. At ENP the elephants are rescued from illegal logging operations, tourist camps and street begging. Now they have a huge tract of land to roam as family groups. Unfortunately, there is no food source at the park so all the food has to be trucked in and prepared by volunteers.

In contrast, the J2F camp is a small collection of rustic bamboo huts approximately 15 minutes drive from the nearest village. Cold showers, hard mattresses on the floor and three vegetarian meals a day are the luxuries on hand. We were lucky enough to blag the 'honeymoon suite'. This required a clamber over a fence then across a rickety bridge for a night time pee, well for one of us anyway. There were a total of 14 volunteers during the week we visited. Not saying that they were all youngsters but we were nicknamed Mom & Dad, at least it wasn't Grandma and Grandpa. Our fun-loving bunch of international kids came from Canada, UK, Belgium, China and USA. The two ENP coordinators, One and Dan, cooked all our meals and planned our daily activities. Dan keeping everybody entertained with his general craziness.

As there are only 7 elephants (compared to 30 at the main ENP in 2014) we got to spend quality time hanging out, observing their personalities, and watching the elephants munch their way through the Thai jungle. Most days we would hike a good 40 minutes to locate the elephants. Adrenaline levels blew through the top of the gauge when you realized that you were standing between the elephants and the next juicy tree. The elephants are equipped with all-terrain 4 wheel drive. It’s hard to believe that they don't topple over as they clamber steep banks to find a great tree for a back scratch. Being so close to these majestic animals has an incredibly calming influence. We would have our own picnic lunch whilst Mae Yui and her seven-year-old calf Mae Bouy searched for their own leafy snack. Minutes turn into hours very quickly. One and Dan had to drag us away when it was time to head back to camp.

Kili, the 6-month-old baby along with Mum, Mae Boon, are kept in a special enclosure deep in the countryside. At one stage I thought we were going to be blindfolded so we wouldn't know the secret location. Not that any one of us would have found our own way back in a month of Sundays. They are kept here until Kili is big enough to follow Mae Boon up the very steep slopes of the surrounding hills. When junior saw us arrive she bounced up and down like an excited puppy, we were some brand new toys to play with! We sat around the lip of the hollow and watched as Kili tried to scamper up the dusty slopes to greet her new buddies. The first recipient of some baby elephant love was Julie who was giddy with excitement, as several hundred pounds of elephant somehow scrambled up the bank and tried to sit on her lap.

We sat in awe and watched junior play for the best part of a couple of hours. Occasional Mum would get a little agitated if she felt we were getting too close or monopolising Kili. Thankfully this little lady will not have to undergo the heart-breaking Phajaan process of having her spirit crushed for the sake of the tourist dollar.

Work-wise we spent time weeding several terraces that will be used to grow elephant food as well as spending a morning cutting bamboo-like grass for feed. There is also a plan to plant some coffee plants so that the beans can be sold to visitors and villagers. We shifted a couple of hundred breeze blocks that will be used to build an enclosure for Zuki (three-years-old), who was abandoned by her Mother and has some special needs. Compared to our time at ENP the volunteer work took less time but was more physically demanding.

A couple of afternoons we piled in the back of the pick-up and headed to the village and hung out with some of the local kids. Some were very shy whilst others wanted to practice their English. We took a group of them on a litter collection walk around the village. The kids trying to out vie each other by seeing who could collection the most rubbish.

Our second visit was to a nursery school where after a little period of awkwardness we had heaps of fun teaching the small kids ‘heads, shoulders, knees and toes’. Then the play dough came out and our artistic talents were pushed to the max. Before playing 'how many kids can sit on Steve and watch video clips of the elephants'. Billy (from the UK) one of our co-volunteers didn't have quite the same level of fun as several kids took to punching and biting him. Maybe they had heard the reputation that West Ham fans have.

For our last night, we trucked and bused from the village to the Elephant Nature Park. Julie and I were blown away with the amount of change that had happened in the last three years. The number of elephants has risen from 30 to 70. They have acquired large tracts of land on the other side of the river where many of the new elephants are kept. The elephants are no longer chained at night, now sleeping ingroup enclosures. Unfortunately the elephants still have to be locked up in the evening. A small price to pay for the love and attention they receive.

We scored a great room for the night with a view of the river where several elephants were just chilling. For our final morning, we had a guided tour of the park visiting the different family groups, some with young. We also met up with a number of the elephants that had been injured by land mines or from back-breaking logging. Unfortunately the founder of the park, Lek, wasn't on hand during our brief stay. On our previous visit we were very fortunate to spend 40 minutes chatting one-on-one with Lek whilst sat below some elephants feeding them fruit.

These two experiences were very different, both give you plenty of quality time with the elephants. If you are short on time and only have a couple of days to spare then the overnight stay at Elephant Nature Park is for you. If you like the finer things in life, like a bed rather than a mattress on the floor or the choice of a dozen delicious vegetarian dishes at every meal time, then ENP is the place for you. Journey to Freedom is very rustic, no wifi and next to no mobile coverage. It is a great escape with the added benefit of being as close as you can get to elephants in a natural surrounding exhibiting nature behaviours.

It's impossible not to walk away from ENP or J2F an elephant advocate. Our enthusiasm for Elephant Nature Park has already seen one of Julie’s good friend's Rohit and his partner Mark spend a week volunteering. Hopefully next time they will make it to ‘Journey to Freedom’. The tireless work that Lek puts in to saving these wonderful animals is unbelievable. In the wild the Asian elephant has been pushed to the edge of extinction. There are more domestic elephants than there are wild ones in Asia. The work that is going on at ENP and sponsored projects is trying hard to reset that balance. Volunteering at ENP means that are you making a direct contribution to save the Asian elephant. No need for rides, paintings, or any other party tricks. Just elephant love.

Cost of volunteering at Journey to Freedom as of May 2017 - 15,000 Baht (NZ$632), includes transfers to and from Chiang Mai, all meals, accommodation and final night at Elephant Nature Park.

PS And as a reward for being wonderful readers you get to see a world premiere of our Journey2Freedom Baby Elephant Video. Click here

3 Easy steps to getting a Myanmar visa in Bangkok

Thinking of travelling from Thailand to Myanmar? Here are 6 easy steps to get a visa at the Myanmar Embassy Bangkok.

Applying for entry visas can sometimes be stressful, time consuming or confusing. Here is our experience applying for a Myanmar tourist visa whilst staying in Bangkok. You can apply for an e-visa online, but we were already in Bangkok and needed a visa quickly.

Armed with these top tips, the process should be quick, simple and painless. We dropped off our passports and application forms at the Myanmar Embassy on a Friday and collected our shiny new visas the following Tuesday.

1. Getting there. The visa office is on Pan Road at the side of the embassy. Take the Skytrain to Surasak and it’s a 5-minute walk from the station. The visa counter opens at 9.00am but they generally open the waiting room door at 8.30am. Having read that there can be quite a wait we rocked up at 8.00am and joined a small queue. We ended up being second in line for the counter when it opened. You need to specify as you enter the waiting room which visa you need, tourist or business.

Top tip: Don’t enter the large metal doors on Pan Road, this appears to be for locals or Burmese renewing work visas etc. If you enter you may never return.

2. What you need

Passport
Photocopy of passport (photograph page)
2 recent passport sized photos (you can get these outside the visa office)
Payment, 1600THB for the standard service. Express service is more
Application form (at the office or just outside)

With Julie in the queue, I walked a 100 meters down Pan Road and found an enterprising couple. For 160 THB I had my passport photos whilst taken sat at the side of the road, got a photocopy of our passports and two application forms. They even have glue and paperclips to attach your photos to the forms. I’m sure you can find it cheaper somewhere else but it’s right outside and they are incredibly helpful.

Inside the waiting room there are a number of school style desks, so don't worry about filling out the form whilst stood in the queue outside. Be warned the desks can be a bit of a squeeze for the slightly larger person. You are given a numbered ticket when the doors open and if your form is filled out correctly the whole process only takes a few minutes.

Top Tip: Don't forget to complete both sides of the application form, you will need to enter some details on your last two jobs.

There are three pricing levels for the visa. We didn't need an express service so settled for collecting our passports after the weekend. It’s an additional 650 THB for same day service and they may ask for proof of flight to Myanmar. You will be given a yellow receipt, keep it safe, you will need it when collecting your passport. I would hate to think of the hoops that you would have to jump through if you lost your receipt.

3. Collection The collection process is again pretty painless. We rocked up at 3.00pm and found 20-30 people waiting. Many of these appear to work for visa agencies and were collecting several passports at once. The counters open at 3.30pm. Five minutes beforehand the sleepy waiting crowd leap into action and formed an orderly queue.

Most important, don’t forget your yellow receipt. This has the counter number stamped on where you collect your passport. In our case, it was the same counter we used before. There were half a dozen people ahead of us in the queue but it moved pretty quickly and we were soon back on the street with our passports and visas to the exotic Myanmar.

Top tip: If you find yourself with a little time to kill there is a great cafe just 200 metres down on the left-hand side from the visa office called Luka. Wonderful coffee and a great space to hang out.

For further information click here for the Official Myanmar Embassy website.

The Kebun

Matang Wildlife Centre

Semenggoh Nature Reserve

Kubah National Park

Bako National Park

Sarawak Cultural Village

More Quick Highlights

Crocodile Encounter

The heart and soul of borneo

Taking it real slow

Cruising Inle Lake

Ngapali Beach Bliss

Water festival Party time

Bye Bye Myanmar, Time to leave

OUR BREAKDOWN

We travelled by: (price for two)

We stayed at: (price per night for two)

We ate at (price for two)

Other Costs (for two unless stated)

You may also like to check out

OUR BREAKDOWN

We travelled by:

We stayed at:

We ate at:

We also spent:

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE TO CHECK OUT

So let’s go!

What to do in Yangon

The glistening Shwedagon Pagoda

It’s not Central Park

The Immense Chaukhtatgyi Buddha

Cheap as chips, the Circular Train

Downtown Yangon

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE TO CHECK OUT

House sitting our way around the world

All is not well in paradise

Eli's story

Race to Survive

An almost impossible task

All this comes at a cost

In memory of Mandi

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE TO CHECK OUT

One night in Vang Vieng

Giving Vientiane Some Love

Street Life, Vientiane Style

Check Out - Hints & Info

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE TO CHECK OUT

Our introduction to Uncle Tom didn't go quite to plan.

Am I good enough?

And we're off

Beerlao o'clock

Back on the 'road' again

The finish line

Check Out - Some practical stuff

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE TO CHECK OUT

How Tourists ruined the Alms Giving Ceremony

Making a difference at Big Brother Mouse

The Sparkling Waters of Kuang Si Waterfalls

Free The Bears, So Cuddly

Not so 'Hairy' Motorbikers

Check Out - hints and info

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE TO CHECK OUT

MORNING

1. Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple)

2. Singha Park

3. Baan Dam Museum (Black House Museum)

AFTERNOON

4. Rong Sear Tean (The Blue Temple)

5. Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

6. Cat n a Cup Cafe

EVENING

7. Wat Chet Yod

8. Jet Yod Road

9. Clock Tower

10. Barrab

You may also like to check out

So exactly what does ethical mean?

Why does it matter?

How to choose an ethical elephant experience

The Truly Wild Experience