Links for Hostels & Hotels

  • Links for Hostels & Hotels

  • Day 0 - St Jean Pied Port - Belilari book as soon as you can. Can obly be booked via web site. You can pick up your Camino Passport at the office opposite Belilari. One or two shops in case you have forgotten something important.
  • Day 1 - Walked 7.8k Orisson - stayed at Refuge Orisson. Here is the Tripadvisor , another great communal dinner. There is nothing else to do here so be warned If stopping here it means you don't have to be in a rush to leave St Jean. They do have one private room. The showers are with tokens (5 mins max) they do have a washing facilities and a dryer tucked away in a quite corner.
  • Day 2 - Walked 17.3k up and over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles - Fairly new accommodation at Orreaga split over three floors. Suggest trying to be here by 1.00pm before the hoards arrive. Very clean and comfy set up. There is a wee town to explore and a couple of bars to have a drink and chill. Dinner is in two sittings at the main restaurant, the pre Evening Mass sitting and the Evening Mass sitting.
  • Day 3 - Walked 22k to Zubiri, stayed at the Hostel Rio Arga Ibaia which is just after the bridge heading into town. Double room cost was €40, really nice bed, shower and good wifi. They do have kitchen facilities and there is a couple of small supermarkets. There is a large municipal albergue but gets very busy.
  • Day 4 - Walked 16.1k to Trindidad de Arre, we stop here because we had already been to Pamplona. The stayed at the Hermanos Maristas a former convent run by a very sweet old man. The accommodation is basic but a very chilled relaxed environment. You can catch a bus into Pamplona from here which takes about 20 minutes.
  • Day 5 - Walked 15.9k to Zariquiegui, stayed at San Andreas. Comfy bunkbeds in a room of 10. Meal at the albergue was pretty good, stunning views in the evening to Pamplona. Good place to stop and then get up before sunrise for an early morning start to the monument to pilgrims. Well worth spending minutes here to take heaps of photos.
  • Day 6 - Walked 17.9k to Maneru, had an early start to take in the sunrise from the top of the hill. The downhill section can be a bit tricky in wet weather. There was a big festival i Puente la Reina which is very cute town. Stayed at Albergue Lurgorri, private albergue, comfy and cool host. Dinner was very yummy. 
  • Day 7- Walked 12.8k to Villatuerta, short day because we wanted to stay at Casa MagicaNo bunk beds here, yippee, great outdoor space, good evening meal but had to push for vegetarian. Great yoga room downstairs that wasn't being used when we stayed. Town centre quite boring, nothing to write home about. The host was a little grumpy for some reason. We may have rocked up too early for them.
  • Day 8 - Walked 25.4k to Los Arcos, biggest day so far. We had breakfast in Estella. Just outside the town is the Wine Fountain,Fuente del Vino. Lunch was a mobile cafe under the olive tree. We stayed at Casa Abueia in Los Arcos. Nice private albergue, on the top floor, very comfy bed and hot showers. Los Arcos is a cute town with lots of bars to watch the world go by.
  • Day 9 - Walked 18.4k to Viana, another gorgeous town. We had a picnic at the far end of town overlooking the valley as sunset. A €2 bottle wine went down a treat. Was a tough day lots of undulating trails some very steep. This the edge of Rioja country. Sorry don't know where we stayed but it was comfy.
  • Day 10 - Walked 22.1k to Narreveete, out before sunrise, lovely walk into Logrono surrounded by rows and rows of vines. Stopped in Logrono for coffee and a look round the cathedral. We bought some food in the supermarket and had a picnic lunch just outside of town. Some tough hills after Logrono. Narreveete was a very special night for us. There was a big fiesta in town. The tapas bar at the back of the main square is amazing. We stayed at El Cantaro, more like a private three bedroom apartment with kitchen and two showers. Very nice.
  • Day 11 - Walked 23.3k to Azofra, long day after a wonderful evening. Had a picnic on route by the river in Najera. Again rows of vines as far as the eye can see. Stayed at the Municipal Albergue. Two to a rabbit hutch, three floors. Big kitchen space but gets very busy. Our dinner was pot noodles and beer. The town has a couple of bars.
  • Day 12 - Walked 21.9k to Grañón, another early start, can't stress how nice it is to be out walking as the sunrises. Had a coffee at the golf course at Cirueña. This is a soulless town that looks like they took the 'build it and they will come' approach, unfortunately nobody came. Santo Domingo on the other hand is a very pretty town. Paid the €3 to visit the cathedral and museum. Wonderful pizza and beer, just what these weary pilgrims needed. Stayed at Ave de Paso in Grañón, very friendly host, great veggie meal.
  • Day 13 - Walked 27.7k to Villafranca de Montes de Oca, and a new walking record. Tough, long day. The town of Belorado is very pretty, love the street art and the plaques commemorating the movie 'The Way'. We both started to struggle a little bit here, Steve with a small blister or two and Julie with an achilles problem. Very few food options open on a Sunday so we ended up at the pilgrim set menu at the large hotel behind our albergue. If you want a touch of luxury you could stay at San Antón Abad. We stayed at La Alpargateria, another top floor room with a very low beam which Steve became acquainted with. They have kitchen facilities but with no shop open it remained empty.
  • Day 14 - Walked 18.3k to Atapuerca, steep hill out of the back off town certainly woke us up. At the top you come across the Monumento de los Caídos, it marks the mass graves of those executed during the Spanish Civil War. Stunning walk through woods with a number of tree art installations and places to stop and reflect. Atapuerca is where the oldest known remains to be found on European soil are. Stayed at El Peregrino, just as you walk into town, big albergue, 6 to a room, get in the showers quick. Great gardens to relax and chill in. The town is worth a wander and dinner at El Palomar was yummy but need to book a table.
  • Day 15 - Walked 16.1k to Burgos, started very early and climb the hill to Cruz de Matagrande just as the sun rose. Incredible views from the top well worth the hard slog up. On the other side we grabbed breakfast of scrambled eggs and coffee at Villaval. In Burgos we grabbed an Airbnb with Jeanna and Ann, just 5 minutes walk from the cathedral in the old town. We did miss the alternative route into town and ended up walking along the main highway.
  • Day 16 - Rest day in Burgos, wonderful city to wander. Funky statues everywhere. Lots of chilling out in various squares drinking heaps of vino.
  • Day 17 - Walked 41.2k to Castrojeriz, big walking day for Steve (Julie is biking with Jeanna and Ann to Leon over the next few days), very early start for Steve, just kept walking and walking. Started out in the dark streets of Burgos. Beautiful countryside for most of the day. Stunning looking castle on top off the hill outside Castrojeriz.The girls bike to Castrojeriz and stayed at Casa del Camping. Very large and comfy but a bit of walk into town. Steve stayed at Ultriea, family new and clean. Managed to bag a bed at the back other room, nice and quiet.
  • Day 18 - Walked 28.3k to Población de Campos, another early start, big hill just outside of town, feeling sorry for myself so booked into a private room.  Wonderful service and a fabulous pilgrim meal including unlimited wine(hic) and first paella of the camino. Highly recommend Amanecer as somewhere today your weary head. Nice town for a bit of a wander, the small sunken church is a cool place to visit.
  • Day 19 - Walked 33.6k to Calzadilea de los Cueza, blisters really playing up now. I'm needling them each evening and applying lots of vaseline. Beautiful morning, took the alternative route along the riverbank. Stunning scenery. The last 17k as flat and soulless along the old roman road, very little shade and no water stops. Make sure that you have plenty of water on hand. Even in early October it was very hot. Crashed at Albergue Camino Real, cheap and almost empty. The big advantage was the swimming pool in the garden where I soaked my weary feet whilst enjoying a beer and ice cream. There is a bar attached to the albergue as well.
  • Day 20 - Walked 37.2k to Calzadilea de los Hermanillos, stopped for breakfast at Sahagun, great cafe on your in the middle of the road as it forks, you need the left hand fork. Treated myself to a private room again at Casa El Cura. Dinner was very nice and the chef a little crazy.
  • Day 21 - Walked 24.4k to Mansilla,those dreaded blisters, but kept going and pushed myself to do an extra 8k meaning I was closer to Leon for an easier day the next day. Stayed at the Municipal Albergue for just €5. Dinner was egg, chips and beer at a cafe opposite the Albergue. Noisy dorm and people left super early, but did have a massage. Check the notices as you checking in and they sometimes have a masseur from the local college visiting, but needs to be booked, cost €10.
  • Day 22 - Walked 18.1k to Leon, finally made it Leon, met up with a Swiss girl (swiss cheese) that Jeanna and Ann introduced us to and we walked into Leon together. Caught with Julie, Jeanna and Ann. Once again booked an Airbnb for the four of us approx 20 minutes walk from the centre of town. I cheated and caught a taxi, given my blisters.
  • Day 23 - Rest Day Leon, not much of a rest day when young up walking 10km's around town. Or limped in my case as the blisters still giving me grief. Had a wander round the Parador and various other places of interest. So good to be able to have a lie in and not be worried about hitting the road.
  • Day 24 - Walked 21.8k to Villar de Mazarife, after saying goodbye to Jeanna and Ann we left the city and spent most of the day walking on our own. At Virgen Del Camino we took the alternative route which was very quiet. Stayed at Antonio de Pádua bagged private room downstairs. Dinner was very yummy in communal dinning room which also had a wood burner in the corner to take the chill off the autumn day.
  • Day 25 - Walked 13.9k to Hospital de Orbigo, sort ish day because we wanted to stop at a particular albergue that provided veggies meals and yoga. A little confused walking into Orbigo but soon found the medieval bridge which is quite stunning. Stayed at Albergue VerdeUnfortunately the yoga was off the menu today, much to Julie's disappointment. Did find a nice bar over looking the river for a vino or two. Great looking town, the albergue is on the edge of town. Good sized gardens to chill in. The dinner was a little usual as it felt like there was a cliche of people that worked there previously then our table of random strangers. Having said that the dinner was fabulous. 
  • Day 26 - Walked 22.3k to Murias de Rechivaldo, up early and helped ourselves to breakfast. Another wonderful day wandering through the Spanish countryside. In Astoria we paid to visit the magnificent Gaudí Bishop's Palace (Palacio Episcopal) and then into the Cathedral. Lunch was at a cafe opposite the cathedral and very average. Don't forget to check out the clock tower in Plaza Mayor. After Santibáñez you will come across what is known as la Casa de los Dioses Cantina. After seven years of manning the stall David left 30minutes before we arrived. Doh. Stayed at the charming Casa las Aguedaslovely courtyard and the best pilgrim meal on the camino (by our reckoning).
  • Day 27 - Walked 20.8k to Foncebadón, easy start to the day with a very flat terrain, started to climb just before Foncebadon, planned to stay here and get an early start to visit the La Cruz de Ferro (cross of iron) Stayed at El Trasgucomfy and nice but like sleeping inside a chocolate cake given the colour of the walls. Lunch was at Monte Irago, great food, open fire and some delicious looking cakes and pies. They also have accommodation that people rave about.
  • Day 28 - Walked 27.4k to Ponferra, the only time we had to break open the rain capes, and then just for an hour as the early morning mist cleared. A little disappointed by the Cross of Iron, was expecting some kind of vista. The morning contemplation spoiled by noisy pilgrims running up and down the pile of stones and shouting at each other to take photos. Tough down hill slog then turned into boring all along side the main road. Ponferra is a sprawling town, but with an amazing castle, Castillo de los Templarios. Dinner was opposite the castle in a small but charming bar. Hostel was a 10 minute walk from the centre of town and attached to a bar, possibly the worst place we stayed at.
  • Day 29 - Walked 25.3k to Villafrancia, grumpy start due to a lack of sleep and struggling to find route out. But the day unfolded very nicely, easy walk mostly flat. Lots of vines, breakfast at Columbriano, then stopped at Cacabelos for lunch. Stayed in a private room at Albergue El Castillojust a stones through from the castle and 5 minutes into the busy but cute town.
  • Day 30 - Walked 21.9k to Herrerias, took the alternative route to the right of the min road, nice big climb out of town, literally straight up for 2.5km, stunning views all around. Then a steep downhill to the main road. So many sweet chesnut trees, a carpet of chestnuts under foot. Tonight e crashed at Las Herrerías, which would be up there as one of the best places we stayed, taking into account the host, food and bed.
  • Day 31 - Walked 28.9k to Triacastela, very early start, walking up and out of town in the dark. Stopped for breakfast at Refugio Vegetariano in La Faba a yoga/veggie cafe, food was good but host didn't have her zen on. Maybe she wasn't a morning person. Eerier feel to the morning with the mist and the occasionally shaft of sunlight. Amazing views, and no we never got bored of the stunning countryside. At O'Cebreio we visited the Iglesia de Santa (oldest church on the Camino) and then exited through the gift shop. Beautiful little town, stopped for a lovely lunch at Complexo Xacobeo of the many cafes. In Triacastela it was our first time at being approached by local asking if we wanted accommodation. Then we were whisked away in a car (which felt very strange, being in a motor vehicle for the first time for a while) to an ok albergue. Just a few minutes wander into the main part of this charming town. Sorry can't remember the name of the albergue but there is lots of good looking accommodation in town.
  • Day 32 - Walked 22.3k to Barbadelo, after a quick breakfast in town we set off on yet another day. We caught up with new friends Jeanna and Ann just outside Sarria, try as hard as we couldn't just shake them off ;) We all stopped for lunch in Sarria had a marvellous Italian meal. Enjoyed a beer or two in the gardens of Casa Barbadelo and then wonderful dinner. Shared a 4 bed room with the girls.
  • Day 33 - Walked 18.5k to Portomarin, a slow start to the day after a great nights sleep. Walked most of the day with our new best buddies. In one of the country lanes we came across a great little cafe that serves up a to die for cheesecake. Lots of new walkers as Sarria marks the 100k to go mark. The train brings in lots of pilgrims that only have time to complete the last 100k's. Stayed at Albergue Aqua Portomarin, went with a private room, clean a tidy albergue just a few minutes from the main plaza.
  • Day 34 - Walked 24.8k to Palas de Rei, we had early start due to wanting to put in the k's today. Nice walk through the woods, a little light rain but not enough to break out the capes. Julie's issues with her achilles started to come back. Stayed at the ultra modern albergue San Marcos
  • Day 35 - Walked 28.8k to Azula, long, long day and was tough at the end. But we are getting closer to our goal each and every day. Tonights dorm had a certain aroma to it. Stayed at Albergue Turístico Ultreia, had a bit of reunion with a number of folk that we had met along the way. Great bathrooms but the dorm was a little smelly. You would have thought we would have gotten used to it by now. 
  • Day 36 - Walked 19.6k to Pedrouzo, A good chuck of today was walking alongside the highway, there was the odd wood, but mostly tarmac. Yummy late lunch at Taste the way. We stayed at Albergue Cruceiro in a room for 4.
  • Day 37 - Walked 19.8k to SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELLA, An amazing feeling walking into the Plaza do Obradoiro in front of the Catherdral.  Lots of tears, smiles and laughter. The last 4k are around the edge of town which is a little dull but nothing could lessen the feeling we had of completing this amazing journey. We left early because we wanted to make the midday mass, which we missed so we went back the following day. And as luck would have it the incense burner (Botafumeiro) was in full swing, literally. After a lazy lunch we joined the small queue at the pilgrim office to collect our compostella. Time for beer or six........

After a couple of nights in Santiago staying at Roots and Boots (easy walking distance to Plaza do Obradoiro, great gardens to hang out in) we headed to the coast and Muxia for three nights of chilling at Apartamentos Praia do Capitàn before moving on and back to the real world.

Link for General Stuff

Buen Camino